tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-37366741238220195142024-03-25T07:06:43.487-07:00Life Learnings Of An EarthlingA blog about the things I've taken apart, repaired, sometimes made better and then put back together again.Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3736674123822019514.post-77545335707379889812022-03-07T11:39:00.001-08:002022-03-07T11:41:11.226-08:00Scott (DT Swiss) Equalizer 2 Shock Tool<p><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-size: 13px;">To do a basic service on the Equalizer 2 shock you need at least 3 specialist tools that you cannot purchased anywhere unless you are specialist shock servicing business. The 3 tools you need for </span><a href="http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock.html" style="background-color: white; color: #3778cd; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">basic disassembly</a><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-size: 13px;"> are as follows:</span></p><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><ol style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">An inverted slot-head screwdriver - to undo the two small bleed valves</li><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">A 4 pin spanner - to remove the chamber cap from the (-) negative chamber</li><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">A 3 pin spanner - to remove the chamber caps from the (+) positive chambers</li></ol><div><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span face="Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif" style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">The <a href="http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.com/2017/04/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock.html" target="_blank">service instructions</a> for the Equalizer 2 shock are the same as the Equalizer 3, but the tools are different. If you need tools for the Equalizer 2, use the links below on this page. If you need the tools for the Equalizer 3 go to the bottom of this <a href="http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.com/2016/09/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock-tool.html" target="_blank">page</a>.</span></span></div><div><div dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" trbidi="on"><div><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://i2.wp.com/xmdsource.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/paypal-logo.png" style="color: #3778cd; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="213" data-original-width="594" height="114" src="https://i2.wp.com/xmdsource.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/paypal-logo.png" style="background: transparent; border-radius: 0px; border: 1px solid transparent; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.2) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 8px; position: relative;" width="320" /></a></div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Please use one of the two blue PayPal links below and I will send you 1 x 4 pin tool and 1 x 3 pin tool. Please include your <b>NAME, ADDRESS and TELEPHONE</b> when you make the transaction.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>PayPal Links:</b><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://paypal.me/fridayshoes/55.50" style="color: #3778cd; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">UK mountain bike friends - 1 x 4 pin adapter & 1 x 3 pin adapter for £55.50 inc. P&P</a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://paypal.me/fridayshoes/60.50" style="color: #3778cd; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">INTERNATIONAL mountain bike friends - 1 x 4 pin adapter & 1 x 3 pin adapter for £60.50 inc. P&P</a></div><div><br /></div><br />Please note 1: Please allow between 10-30 days for delivery depending on where you live.<br /><br />Please note 2: The 3D design files are NOT available for download.<br /><br />Please note 3: Remember these tools are not made from metal, they are plastic, but they are strong enough to do the job multiple times if they are used in the correct way - DO NOT USE THEM WITH ADJUSTABLE SPANNERS, MONKEY WRENCHES OR RING SPANNERS. ONLY USE THEM WITH RATCHET SOCKETS.</div><div dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" trbidi="on">Please note 4: The tools listed on on this page will only work with the Equalizer 2. If you need tools for the Equalizer 3, then go to this <a href="http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.com/2016/09/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock-tool.html" target="_blank">page</a>.<br /><br />Feel free to ask questions or leave a review in the comments box below.<br /><br />Thanks</div></div>Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3736674123822019514.post-47296879982504172922017-06-07T15:43:00.004-07:002017-06-07T15:43:58.759-07:00Adobe Premiere Pro CC 2017 no video / can't see video [SOLVED]<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
New Windows 10 laptop with dual Intel and nVidia graphics and a fresh installation of Adobe Premiere Pro CC 2017 began with several hours of frustration as no matter what project I loaded it would not play video from my media library or my sequence timeline.<br />
<br />
Finally after much hair loss I discovered that the nVidia control panel had cunningly selected the inferior Intel graphics adaptor as the default for Premiere Pro when it should be using the more capable nVida Geforce GTX 960M.<br />
<br />
All I had to do to correct this was go into the nVidia Control Panel, select 'Manage 3D settings, then select the 2nd tab called 'Program Settings'. After this find Adobe Premiere in the 1st drop down list, then in the 2nd drop down list select 'High-performance NVIDIA processor'. Click 'Apply' at the bottom right of the window, close the Control Panel and reboot Adobe Premiere Pro CC 2017, you should now have video.</div>
Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3736674123822019514.post-65248267175434138232017-04-21T08:22:00.001-07:002020-06-02T14:38:37.405-07:00Scott (DT Swiss) Equalizer 3 Shock - Service Instructions (Basic)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Introduction</b><br />
<br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">The Scott Equalizer 3 shock was engineered for Scott by DT Swiss and features on the Scott Genius range of bikes.</span><br />
<br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Unlike most rear bicycle 'push shocks', the Equalizer 3 is a 'pull shock'. It features 3 modes of operation:</span><br />
<ol style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Full travel mode</li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Traction mode</li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding: 0px;">Lock-out mode</li>
</ol>
<b style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Disassembly process</b><br />
<br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" />
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px;">Before you can service the shock you will need to disassemble it. The disassembly instructions can be found <a href="http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock.html" target="_blank">here</a> and the special disassembly tools <a href="http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.co.uk/2016/09/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock-tool.html" target="_blank">here</a> </span></span><br />
<br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" />
<b style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Servicing process</b><br />
<b style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></b>
<span style="color: #444444; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-size: 13px;">Before we start out I must point out I am not a qualified bike engineer, what you read and see here is the result of my own readings, curious mind and practical knowledge. I may update this guide if anyone else can suggest a better method or provide new understanding.</span></span><br />
<b style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></b>
<b style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></b>
<b style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">You will need the following tools/service materials:</b><br />
<br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" />
<a href="http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.co.uk/2016/09/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock-tool.html" style="background-color: white; color: #4d469c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Large 4 pin tool for (-) negative chamber</a><br />
<a href="http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.co.uk/2016/09/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock-tool.html" style="background-color: white; color: #4d469c; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank">Small 3 pin tool for (+) positive chambers</a><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Inverted slot head screwdriver (3mm diameter)</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Torque wrench)</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">42mm ratchet socket</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">26mm ratchet socket</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Vice with soft jaws</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: "arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">T10 Torx star bit</span><br />
5W or 7.5W Suspension oil<br />
Stanchon grease<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Step 1 : Greasing the (+) positive and (-) negative chambers</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Grease the insides of each of the 3 tubes<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1gpwR0DPBGU1R2WHXZdU8BdmYXlj7bZo_vlPeN4zvC3qmmXy3hOUwSB09HgfL5UhBySgBtdnvhKKWZYSk_dwdflL_kYLZ-8cq6Pj0keYtL4pS7PoInH7eTeK60ynvBb3SQSAegWfO0ys/s1600/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25285%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1gpwR0DPBGU1R2WHXZdU8BdmYXlj7bZo_vlPeN4zvC3qmmXy3hOUwSB09HgfL5UhBySgBtdnvhKKWZYSk_dwdflL_kYLZ-8cq6Pj0keYtL4pS7PoInH7eTeK60ynvBb3SQSAegWfO0ys/s640/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25285%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1pnsRxc7wF-3zqglxRWmWMGBCArv6yK7o3nbQaKsclXfyncjCHWXZWiI98Cp9BXIViiv3sGKAVIkJU37m0jOr5V6y8cjSur2yvPTMBSBN40NV-0xNQloKTB15M6-_Li84aK-DpvxL_6M/s1600/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25284%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1pnsRxc7wF-3zqglxRWmWMGBCArv6yK7o3nbQaKsclXfyncjCHWXZWiI98Cp9BXIViiv3sGKAVIkJU37m0jOr5V6y8cjSur2yvPTMBSBN40NV-0xNQloKTB15M6-_Li84aK-DpvxL_6M/s640/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25284%2529.jpg" width="444" /></a></div>
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<br />
<b>Step 2: Greasing the piston seals and inserting the pistons into the shock</b><br />
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Lightly grease the seals on the both the small + piston inserts<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLjttG15ye1049C7sYXaO5N1CSPssSpzTv9W8Z3zP2NtZEpWS6MeddryXXiGEIVOHjIzLGHLMl72Nvlu40nilqezH8rb93b6dOGvsK-9B3oNXCn7RL6rRBfTpV0HE971Dg6C_Shftqa5k/s1600/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25283%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLjttG15ye1049C7sYXaO5N1CSPssSpzTv9W8Z3zP2NtZEpWS6MeddryXXiGEIVOHjIzLGHLMl72Nvlu40nilqezH8rb93b6dOGvsK-9B3oNXCn7RL6rRBfTpV0HE971Dg6C_Shftqa5k/s640/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25283%2529.jpg" width="502" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Insert both positive pistons into their chambers and push them down as far as they will go (there may be some resistance, so you need to release some of the trapped air from the positive valve).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4AOPkc74opaqlszcVBW7Pp_fOXbi-C76aN45_ZWUnU2yE12dNniU75iIYtq6TNz_KyihVDXOKCoyrekgy4ZB63J5cyiA2yCm86mh4wndeBUYktIrB3gpkjJjw4DRdh3yPNqNnoemBRT8/s1600/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4AOPkc74opaqlszcVBW7Pp_fOXbi-C76aN45_ZWUnU2yE12dNniU75iIYtq6TNz_KyihVDXOKCoyrekgy4ZB63J5cyiA2yCm86mh4wndeBUYktIrB3gpkjJjw4DRdh3yPNqNnoemBRT8/s640/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25282%2529.jpg" width="446" /></a></div>
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<br />
Lightly grease the seal on the negative piston seal<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB3DH-ELgFz-9NEFlX_byVeJZOdeGItcmk_sAV1abdu5UPmt5cLAbZyIjOj-q4e4VNyjjau5M_NFxqzhIVkOjCQgtWA_euN3JxSHuU_sbxzh7NAbROQOgfpK3QrAXTGh_5zpph8dkp6EE/s1600/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB3DH-ELgFz-9NEFlX_byVeJZOdeGItcmk_sAV1abdu5UPmt5cLAbZyIjOj-q4e4VNyjjau5M_NFxqzhIVkOjCQgtWA_euN3JxSHuU_sbxzh7NAbROQOgfpK3QrAXTGh_5zpph8dkp6EE/s640/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25281%2529.jpg" width="448" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Insert the negative piston into the chamber and push down (there may be some resistance, so you need to release some of the trapped air from the negative valve). Before the piston is all the way in make sure there is a gap to pour in the new oil.<br />
<br />
<b>Step 3: Measuring and filling with oil</b><br />
<br />
Now measure out 82ml of shock oil (5wt or 7.7wt) and spread the amount across all 3 chambers (do not over fill and leave enough space to install the end caps)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3kSJYVX_Y_AkqgxiEvnzQrRIesZP97dYrRTY1yrdQRAq1SBNlcUmYIBZJ_zbYdL6svSndWFPdsambG8PMsRtTudtv5aSkUMZT952v2WAli0Mdy6uMr-uZkq2fty7z822dpdTwv9AxK3E/s1600/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%252810%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3kSJYVX_Y_AkqgxiEvnzQrRIesZP97dYrRTY1yrdQRAq1SBNlcUmYIBZJ_zbYdL6svSndWFPdsambG8PMsRtTudtv5aSkUMZT952v2WAli0Mdy6uMr-uZkq2fty7z822dpdTwv9AxK3E/s640/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%252810%2529.jpg" width="502" /></a></div>
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<br />
<b>Step 4: Tightening chamber end caps</b><br />
<br />
Install both postive piston end caps with the small 3 pin tool and 26mm ratchet socket and tighten 6 1/4 turns (tighten to 10nm with a torque wrench)<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Please note:</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">DO NOT USE AN ADJUSTABLE SPANNER, MONKEY WRENCH OR RING SPANNER AS THEY CREATE UNEQUAL TURNING FORCE ON THE ADAPTOR AND HAVE NO DOWNWARDS PRESSURE.</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG5zjTLZgFio0oitFsO82kiGYNOJ0K2nTe7BFfCCFdemNGxnVff35-AEkJjhel_lZxRDZ4RwKT3fCXyOllVvUsEWesErBO5NGcvW2QBl36dlEdX7po1MEp2xFTX1cZwIls7QzGD4AoZ7I/s1600/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25289%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG5zjTLZgFio0oitFsO82kiGYNOJ0K2nTe7BFfCCFdemNGxnVff35-AEkJjhel_lZxRDZ4RwKT3fCXyOllVvUsEWesErBO5NGcvW2QBl36dlEdX7po1MEp2xFTX1cZwIls7QzGD4AoZ7I/s640/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25289%2529.jpg" width="436" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Then tighten the main large piston end cap with the large 4 pin tool and 42mm ratchet socket (10nm with torque wrench)<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Please note:</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">DO NOT USE AN ADJUSTABLE SPANNER, MONKEY WRENCH OR RING SPANNER AS THEY CREATE UNEQUAL TURNING FORCE ON THE ADAPTOR AND HAVE NO DOWNWARDS PRESSURE.</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vnmremoEKi7InUZNtBof0L5OAVhLuRRf3lXZQBtfwMJdTGNu92wxpVWB9H3xUCqzrqC9C0hQMa4Lak_IiJVcuu1cqJhzb-0fZ5tucbzxAd_9mDyzNNZcGLt_f8wjzI-TzvKpo7N7A3Q/s1600/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25287%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vnmremoEKi7InUZNtBof0L5OAVhLuRRf3lXZQBtfwMJdTGNu92wxpVWB9H3xUCqzrqC9C0hQMa4Lak_IiJVcuu1cqJhzb-0fZ5tucbzxAd_9mDyzNNZcGLt_f8wjzI-TzvKpo7N7A3Q/s640/Scott_Equalizer_3_+%25287%2529.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<br />
<b>Step 5: Priming the shock</b><br />
<br />
Inflate both valves to approx 50psi<br />
<br />
Gently release each bleed valve one-by-one using the inverted screwdriver to expel any trapped air until oil appears at the hole.<br />
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<b>Step 6: Pressurising shock for rider weight</b><br />
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(The instructions on the shock body are pretty self explanatory, but you can can also find my detail on the procedure my following the instructions in the Scott owners manual)<br />
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Then proceed to inflate the positive chamber to the required pressure for rider weight (as stated on the chart on the side of the shock)<br />
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Now proceed to inflate the negative chamber to the required pressure for rider weight (as stated on the chart on the side of the shock)<br />
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<b>Step 6: Final check over</b><br />
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If all has gone well the shock should be in the fully retracted position with no shaft showing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVg45WrtwkgWcXBGUUWvf-1kx0FC058bS2UI66s8rjAz_mu1WfBtkWqCZDtu5WiUFRe8P4XPnVQJApqPTx-r6YjGQRRtw_PHzVclUKoHLrdcTjcDrjOegTnjcb_NCkYZUuGvz5Gk9xlyU/s1600/2017-04-20+22.28.18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVg45WrtwkgWcXBGUUWvf-1kx0FC058bS2UI66s8rjAz_mu1WfBtkWqCZDtu5WiUFRe8P4XPnVQJApqPTx-r6YjGQRRtw_PHzVclUKoHLrdcTjcDrjOegTnjcb_NCkYZUuGvz5Gk9xlyU/s640/2017-04-20+22.28.18.jpg" width="364" /></a></div>
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You can now reinstall the red rebound adjusters on the positive chambers (assuming you followed my disassembly instructions you should set both dials to 1 before tightening the screws).</div>
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Finally remember to put the dust caps back on the valves</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinnB0IqqlnXqAKp_ppzaI_TBsCdqtvThU4nyZwJ3YJKB2dzCf2QWBr7SbWQohcbUM_OGB52pMiOwtIV2CkWNU_8cwtfUvQp2oxMyXlHY6r48QahSE1Mj0v3An_CiS6HxDfDfUoAltAMZA/s1600/2017-04-20+22.28.34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinnB0IqqlnXqAKp_ppzaI_TBsCdqtvThU4nyZwJ3YJKB2dzCf2QWBr7SbWQohcbUM_OGB52pMiOwtIV2CkWNU_8cwtfUvQp2oxMyXlHY6r48QahSE1Mj0v3An_CiS6HxDfDfUoAltAMZA/s640/2017-04-20+22.28.34.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Last step is obviously to set the required pressures for your rider weight using the chart on the side of the shock. You can also use <a href="http://assets.scott-sports.com.s3.amazonaws.com/suspension_setup_tool/index.html" target="_blank">Scott's online calibration tool</a> to help you further tune your ride.<br />
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Feel free to leave a comment if you've done the job yourself and have a different method or ideas about servicing it.</div>
Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.com35tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3736674123822019514.post-18219436827737946692017-03-12T16:20:00.004-07:002021-03-18T04:37:49.079-07:00HxC Slim Floppy Emulator mount for Atari ST (small button version)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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If you have a passing interest in vintage computers from the 80's & 90's you have probably come across a couple of devices like the <a href="http://lotharek.pl/category.php?kid=25" target="_blank">HxC</a> and Gotek floppy emulators. These two devices allow you to easily store and load thousands of retro software titles from an SD card or USB stick without the need to rely on ageing floppy disks.</div>
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As great as the HxC and Gotek floppy emulators are there are some issues when it comes to installing them in a machine such as an Atari ST or Commodore Amiga. Users will often find that they have to modify and cut the casing of their chosen computer to help make the device fit as the opening for the floppy drive was often sculpted around a non-standard floppy drive face plate. Another issue in respect of the Atari ST is that the connecting floppy drive ribbon cable is often very short which becomes a problem as it needs to be twisted 180° when attaching it to anything other than an original double density drive.</div>
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To solve the case cutting and ribbon cable twisting problem I designed a special mounting bracket for the HxC Slim Floppy emulator which allows the device to be mounted neatly and with minimal fuss inside the Atari ST.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5FYSV0_zqlF2mIyIupiHJJ5Tcg02gayhojDPJ_qbbOhyphenhyphenjni6_xcrf0otnQryKDkwIS_TQdfw6Ycb0kIxH30jBirz4F1SuUH665hWvrj9OQ-W1DB3r-HTxNQM3cKis8Dbdz0N7g4xDO9U/s1600/HxC_Slim.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5FYSV0_zqlF2mIyIupiHJJ5Tcg02gayhojDPJ_qbbOhyphenhyphenjni6_xcrf0otnQryKDkwIS_TQdfw6Ycb0kIxH30jBirz4F1SuUH665hWvrj9OQ-W1DB3r-HTxNQM3cKis8Dbdz0N7g4xDO9U/s640/HxC_Slim.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The mount for the HxC slim attaches to the original 4 mounting posts (3 plastic, 1 brass) using the original floppy drive screws.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk-gGCaM6D2MG3qkH2SoRNZYUz2VRj45xVwdAA81syg0tr23wA6EedWTwK-MEe6Ekqzb44A29TksszGkOWKfinJrieqzuy5iBcUw35Hn4Hsb88M_SbNK-O0KoV56vyI2UEgQP_igaUKkQ/s1600/HxC_Slim_Mount_Atari_ST_+%25282%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk-gGCaM6D2MG3qkH2SoRNZYUz2VRj45xVwdAA81syg0tr23wA6EedWTwK-MEe6Ekqzb44A29TksszGkOWKfinJrieqzuy5iBcUw35Hn4Hsb88M_SbNK-O0KoV56vyI2UEgQP_igaUKkQ/s640/HxC_Slim_Mount_Atari_ST_+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The HxC is mounted upside down so there is now no need to twist the floppy drive cable.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcRsEeKL4styZnhIdnHIQbPta_PzR_FIYr3cuZ4p-l12_cSz5oAZS0zWBUTszXfqVZlCtls9NUwSaY67Gvxjz2X0yy93iK4j4ITyVjUVvKgonpFM7bnw3fGfgbXFm2JjkMVMB_5AvcJ_o/s1600/HxC_Slim_Mount_Atari_ST_+%25283%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcRsEeKL4styZnhIdnHIQbPta_PzR_FIYr3cuZ4p-l12_cSz5oAZS0zWBUTszXfqVZlCtls9NUwSaY67Gvxjz2X0yy93iK4j4ITyVjUVvKgonpFM7bnw3fGfgbXFm2JjkMVMB_5AvcJ_o/s640/HxC_Slim_Mount_Atari_ST_+%25283%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Also the faceplate is aesthetically designed to fit the bespoke floppy drive case opening with an imitation wedge shaped drive button. As a bonus I have also allowed extra space above the ROM chips so that various ROM switchers can be installed without touching the mount.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm_8XtJmQ56U8aZmtvZfNUvRBGaBpZjAw02sODRM8mOwlbeTXydkOCxEkQn7ID9GaT8bziyYL9MzO6nsmeAdBveaOgPiEEK2DqoG6k4ZSQuY3HjUrJEK6WSQK1nVTjM_NrO9GW9KVqWB0/s1600/HxC_Slim_Mount_Atari_ST_+%25284%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm_8XtJmQ56U8aZmtvZfNUvRBGaBpZjAw02sODRM8mOwlbeTXydkOCxEkQn7ID9GaT8bziyYL9MzO6nsmeAdBveaOgPiEEK2DqoG6k4ZSQuY3HjUrJEK6WSQK1nVTjM_NrO9GW9KVqWB0/s640/HxC_Slim_Mount_Atari_ST_+%25284%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhTrKOosF5DwHFQYMPK5Q53epMQh6h4_zTFtcYn6HKv1bA2Dt5x2Ha0hlkROtq1gMk2pNPHL-5sJ8XF5x1jpko87yFxTeSt_HLok7uxjzrMripPobLZJgCpRiLrVlkWh1nPx-4K9GK9LU/s1600/HxC_Slim_Mount_Atari_ST_+%25285%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhTrKOosF5DwHFQYMPK5Q53epMQh6h4_zTFtcYn6HKv1bA2Dt5x2Ha0hlkROtq1gMk2pNPHL-5sJ8XF5x1jpko87yFxTeSt_HLok7uxjzrMripPobLZJgCpRiLrVlkWh1nPx-4K9GK9LU/s640/HxC_Slim_Mount_Atari_ST_+%25285%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Disclaimer:<br />
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Each mount is 3D printed on a Makebot Replicator 2X using grey ABS plastic, with a build time of approx. 2 1/2 hours. The print quality is <u>NOT</u> professional but is decent enough for the task and makes a far tidier and easier job that cutting the case of the machine which never looks good and keeps everything as original as possible. I am always trying to improve the print quality as my knowledge and experience of 3D printing increases.<br />
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If you would like to buy a HxC slim mount for the Atari ST please use the PayPal links below. To keep costs as low as possible (time, energy, materials, prototypes, etc) I will send the mount with the printing rafts and supports still attached. These rafts and supports are fairly easy to break off but you may need a hobby knife or scalpel to remove some of the excess plastic.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMR_m1ET4zykedR-0MIhsLkloX4wodJ4bmFg8opIrkrWZmUqF3pOD0zZiCrdE9ne4PRgglwTmAkl_xuoJRs8iHYiYBBGquHI_kZRDUvC7RT4kMGF5gSP4_1DKHqPEjGQCJyqA2Fchotq8/s1600/HxC_Slim_Mount_Atari_ST_+%25281%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMR_m1ET4zykedR-0MIhsLkloX4wodJ4bmFg8opIrkrWZmUqF3pOD0zZiCrdE9ne4PRgglwTmAkl_xuoJRs8iHYiYBBGquHI_kZRDUvC7RT4kMGF5gSP4_1DKHqPEjGQCJyqA2Fchotq8/s640/HxC_Slim_Mount_Atari_ST_+%25281%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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To buy please use these PayPal links:<br />
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<a href="https://www.paypal.me/fridayshoes/16.01" target="_blank">UK - HxC Slim mount for Atari ST (small button version) - £16.01 inc P&P</a><br />
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<a href="https://www.paypal.me/fridayshoes/18.01" target="_blank">EUROPE - HxC Slim mount for Atari ST (small button version) - 18.01 inc P&P</a><br />
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<a href="https://www.paypal.me/fridayshoes/20.01" target="_blank">REST OF WORLD - HxC Slim mount for Atari ST (small button version) - £20.01 inc P&P</a><br />
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<span face=""arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif" style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">Please note: I am only making these as they are required so please allow between 10-30 days for delivery.</span></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif" style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><br /></span></span> <span face=""arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif" style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">Feel free to ask questions or leave a review in the comments box below.</span></span><br />
<span face=""arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif" style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><br /></span></span> <span face=""arial" , "tahoma" , "helvetica" , "freesans" , sans-serif" style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">Thanks</span></span></div>
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Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3736674123822019514.post-87060981952594658282017-01-19T14:19:00.000-08:002018-11-29T04:38:17.816-08:00Wordpress Contact Form 7 emails won't send to Office 365 [Solved]<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I got a job to set up a new business website for a client. The job involved setting up a brand new Wordpress website on a new host and not on the old host they were currently with. Their domain names and email were also registered at the old host too but would not be moved.<br />
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So, the new Wordpress website went up without a hitch but I ran into a problem where a form on the contact page that was using the Contact Form 7 plugin wouldn't send emails to any 'whoever@companydomainname.com' email address, it would however send emails to any other address (eg. whoever@yahoo.co.uk, whoever@hotmail.com etc) as long as it didn't use the @companydomainname.com.<br />
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To resolve this I contacted my hosting support and they instructed me to go into cPanel, go to Email and select MX Entry.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisx8t7Wv6S9_50n6ctR9sbNEFWVZ6yMVriMbm8VQAYtu8XK67xmpcfhvRTUCT-3fiPQQED6HgztDdQuvF24NpKixiMcIDaoadUBxPFufeTKUmUXH2f-wBBBvVaSuUnLl7jL70nJiFJFjw/s1600/cpanel_email_mx_entry_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisx8t7Wv6S9_50n6ctR9sbNEFWVZ6yMVriMbm8VQAYtu8XK67xmpcfhvRTUCT-3fiPQQED6HgztDdQuvF24NpKixiMcIDaoadUBxPFufeTKUmUXH2f-wBBBvVaSuUnLl7jL70nJiFJFjw/s640/cpanel_email_mx_entry_01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then select the 'companydomainname.com' and make sure Email Routing was set to 'Remote Mail Exchanger'.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4wTb_EQJ5vhrrCi93pYRZ7vWybBN-TWgajHsC1t3WdLEiJgBPtsTHeNmGACbHLqFbDg8_bCq2K8wJ7F_5NjWESfgSxdVeXsareFU7KS3HmbSzY4ptmJLIJ8b4bhTmOFee7TLCsa-MOw/s1600/cpanel_email_remote_mail_exchanger.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4wTb_EQJ5vhrrCi93pYRZ7vWybBN-TWgajHsC1t3WdLEiJgBPtsTHeNmGACbHLqFbDg8_bCq2K8wJ7F_5NjWESfgSxdVeXsareFU7KS3HmbSzY4ptmJLIJ8b4bhTmOFee7TLCsa-MOw/s640/cpanel_email_remote_mail_exchanger.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately this alone did not fully solve my problem.<br />
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It wasn't until further investigation on the DNS Zone settings for the domain name at the old host that I discovered they were using Office 365 for their email and not the built in host email service I had assumed.<br />
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I discovered this because of three DNS Zone records that looked like this:<br />
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<b>v=spf1 include:spf.protection.outlook.com -all</b><br />
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<b>autodiscover.outlook.com</b><br />
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<b>clientconfig.microsoftonline-p.net</b><br />
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I then went into the cPanel on the old host and checked the Email MX Entry for the domain, which looked like this:<br />
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<b>companydomainname-com.mail.protection.outlook.com</b><br />
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So I copied this and went back to the Email MX Entry on the new host. I selected the 'companydomainname' and then removed the 'companydomainname.com' under the MX Records section.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoq16O1xmcTqmzmrSQ2eD0YoeQtE4gAI78hpw0kFp2AFoZBRHKbMXL5Dt1dh-GdV72vesZ1_lnrbjVz6juoyt3-_MFe7Vwyr6-DdQJsCZs8LmEgmLklNezkIAlPI_XRCK_4Y_6_NpKVu4/s1600/cpanel_email_mx_entry_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="78" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoq16O1xmcTqmzmrSQ2eD0YoeQtE4gAI78hpw0kFp2AFoZBRHKbMXL5Dt1dh-GdV72vesZ1_lnrbjVz6juoyt3-_MFe7Vwyr6-DdQJsCZs8LmEgmLklNezkIAlPI_XRCK_4Y_6_NpKVu4/s640/cpanel_email_mx_entry_03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I then inserted companydomainname-com.mail.protection.outlook.com into the destination box under the 'Add New Record' heading and clicked 'Add New Record'<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwaKO_JbBy-dsTYHYuhA4KRaePu3oR5p-UBWcdM0SlWR-9vCKsMy-ve66oYaMHfQdahvwhMVRN8USkT0hAqoAagWsUcfvAuUyxiqg1SN_qrLD2S2z9F4ClmSn_OoAIGnHkIR9XmI7rkBs/s1600/cpanel_email_mx_entry_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwaKO_JbBy-dsTYHYuhA4KRaePu3oR5p-UBWcdM0SlWR-9vCKsMy-ve66oYaMHfQdahvwhMVRN8USkT0hAqoAagWsUcfvAuUyxiqg1SN_qrLD2S2z9F4ClmSn_OoAIGnHkIR9XmI7rkBs/s640/cpanel_email_mx_entry_02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The companydomainname-com.mail.protection.outlook.com then appears in the MX Records section<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKPFo295Y8r0hjyaoZsNs3F6oPMwcRjDgiiWLRr1Exq7xQhbTIoUlRzlZ4f831Tc17kqy3hhE6O2_4HPiiqk_ZqIDSgiE7TCN6zDvQFWYyPBrO7nzgN_-T6fn_rKQ505FnKDofhW9jsvw/s1600/cpanel_email_mx_entry_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="88" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKPFo295Y8r0hjyaoZsNs3F6oPMwcRjDgiiWLRr1Exq7xQhbTIoUlRzlZ4f831Tc17kqy3hhE6O2_4HPiiqk_ZqIDSgiE7TCN6zDvQFWYyPBrO7nzgN_-T6fn_rKQ505FnKDofhW9jsvw/s640/cpanel_email_mx_entry_04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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After this the form on my website would correctly send emails to any whoever@companydomainname.com email address.<br />
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Hope this helps someone out.<br />
<br />
This <a href="http://blog.grimeymedia.com/solved-not-getting-emails-from-website-or-this-sender-failed-our-fraud-detection-checks-and-may-not-be-who-they-appear-to-be/" target="_blank">link</a> was also useful<br />
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Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3736674123822019514.post-41295317857595372562016-12-06T02:45:00.001-08:002020-06-02T14:36:46.866-07:00Scott (DT Swiss) Equalizer 3 Shock - Disassembly Instructions (Basic)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This guide is a work in progress (as haven't had time to add in all the pictures and details yet) for the Equalizer 3 (and Equalizer 2 should be similar process), if you require disassembly for the Equalizer 1 then see <a href="http://forums.mtbr.com/scott-sports/ransom-equalizer-oil-change-650983.html" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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<b>Introduction</b><br />
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The Scott Equalizer 3 shock was engineered for Scott by DT Swiss and features on the Scott Genius range of bikes.<br />
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Unlike most rear bicycle 'push shocks', the Equalizer 3 is a 'pull shock'. It features 3 modes of operation:<br />
<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>Full travel mode</li>
<li>Traction mode</li>
<li>Lock-out mode</li>
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<b>Disassembly process</b><br />
<br />
Neither Scott nor DT Swiss will provide a diagram or the tools to disassemble the shock for the public - hence I take no responsibility for any damage you may cause to your shock or yourself should you choose to follow these instructions.<br />
<br />
Hopefully this guide will encourage <a href="http://www.tftuned.com/" target="_blank">TF Tuned</a> to begin selling the seal kits for this shock on their website.<br />
<br />
<b>You will need the following tools:</b><br />
<br />
<a href="http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.co.uk/2016/09/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock-tool.html" target="_blank">Large 4 pin tool for (-) negative chamber</a><br />
<a href="http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.co.uk/2016/09/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock-tool.html" target="_blank">Small 3 pin tool for (+) positive chambers</a><br />
Inverted slot head screwdriver (3mm diameter)<br />
Socket wrench (Torque wrench recommended but optional)<br />
42mm ratchet socket<br />
26mm ratchet socket<br />
Vice with soft jaws<br />
T10 Torx star bit<br />
Tipp-Ex correction fluid (or white paint)<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Step 1 - Remove Equalizer 3 shock from your bike</b><br />
<br />
First set the shock to full travel mode using the 3 position lever on the handlebars<br />
<br />
Then undo the two small screws on the plastic access panel on the side of the Equalizer 3 shock using (insert allen key size here), then undo the small grub screw inside using (insert allen key size here) this will release the cable.<br />
<br />
Now undo the two allen bolts that secure the shock to the frame of the bike using (insert allen key size here) and remove the shock from the bike un-threading the cable as you go. You can also pull off the black guide and store it in a safe place.<br />
<br />
<b>Step 2 - Depressurise shock (IMPORTANT!!!)</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Undo the air valve caps for the (+) and (-) chambers (shown by orange arrows) and use a small screwdriver to press each valve pin until all the air from both chambers is released. You may find that some oil is also released through these valves together with the air.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWKlTT7Y8hF1QAN9E8nhyphenhyphen13N_-DV2ha84mvx8pua7p8Zrnr6iu_qrwlSBtHWH688ZFqA8-n-ckefzPlgUYkzvsSMbZ6VcgU6dmK788V7c64xYRXZoA5EWrkUmPyKqwIomLLlC_2GA_eVE/s1600/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWKlTT7Y8hF1QAN9E8nhyphenhyphen13N_-DV2ha84mvx8pua7p8Zrnr6iu_qrwlSBtHWH688ZFqA8-n-ckefzPlgUYkzvsSMbZ6VcgU6dmK788V7c64xYRXZoA5EWrkUmPyKqwIomLLlC_2GA_eVE/s640/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_03.jpg" width="604" /></a></div>
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<br />
<b>Step 3 - Sag Guide removal</b><br />
<br />
Using a (insert allen key size here) remove the Sag Guide from the shock<br />
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<b>Step 4 - Reset rebound adjusters</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Turn the red rebound dials on both the (+) positive chambers clockwise until the number 1 lines up directly with the red line on the side of each chamber. Then using a T10 Torx star bit undo the screw on the top of each red dial and remove.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmqgH_jecGaOWjswQ4hEu4PHgtIP9Rft32fOcDSNu5V2PWRECmNxziB5SG6ORP7E4cvD2ywNhAqyfb8yH9dBs1nTUJGHCL3QxqezV-jF2ReRKfZCExoCxCrROo4ekoSAZBWoydmNk0MRI/s1600/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmqgH_jecGaOWjswQ4hEu4PHgtIP9Rft32fOcDSNu5V2PWRECmNxziB5SG6ORP7E4cvD2ywNhAqyfb8yH9dBs1nTUJGHCL3QxqezV-jF2ReRKfZCExoCxCrROo4ekoSAZBWoydmNk0MRI/s640/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_01.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5OTuCEM5EfnjWkd1jSp1Nc44lgxga-FttljGja3dmXlTI4RNwlWmiT5K4sGP0OA1r5kR9W1sUnWTb9-j1w7NA48T5DWVqYZfuoH43dCrHYkhqviTAaJOfus3mIXA6LbgYJNhnOtRHDUQ/s1600/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5OTuCEM5EfnjWkd1jSp1Nc44lgxga-FttljGja3dmXlTI4RNwlWmiT5K4sGP0OA1r5kR9W1sUnWTb9-j1w7NA48T5DWVqYZfuoH43dCrHYkhqviTAaJOfus3mIXA6LbgYJNhnOtRHDUQ/s640/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_02.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<b><br /></b>
<b>Step 5 - Reference marking the chambers (IMPORTANT)</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
If you do not own a torque wrench it is important to add a reference mark on the top of each of the 3 chambers before undoing the caps. This ensures that when you come to reassemble the shock you will not under-tighten or over-tighten the threads. Mark the 3 chambers as shown in the photo (see orange arrows) with some white paint or pen correction fluid like Tipp-Ex (please note that shock fluid will dissolve these markings so be careful during disassembly not to rub them off).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCp1ESm3R5JqPXSiCNYWe1J_667wN6XcbIwzG4-qBrg4JCjMBUuQZWGp9aZcuLEUi2_WNAo-thD_BlaYXxODqQ3WgruYojmFOH7FxdASsEXKs_EYJ0U3yCMU2MMt0LyrpR59PCalPMi8g/s1600/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCp1ESm3R5JqPXSiCNYWe1J_667wN6XcbIwzG4-qBrg4JCjMBUuQZWGp9aZcuLEUi2_WNAo-thD_BlaYXxODqQ3WgruYojmFOH7FxdASsEXKs_EYJ0U3yCMU2MMt0LyrpR59PCalPMi8g/s640/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_04.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWf8Q5fEGk60p-S7yx3eQfBDR2iNwIv61ZyRcxbnT3GuRZmSSDjd1osL2IlRXC8CF1WTGjBRgux77EY451zOAu4CPy-YdIfvzBKZLn2GI0l2XOZuH-dsDSwuo1otSQDkGqkUUll54txWo/s1600/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWf8Q5fEGk60p-S7yx3eQfBDR2iNwIv61ZyRcxbnT3GuRZmSSDjd1osL2IlRXC8CF1WTGjBRgux77EY451zOAu4CPy-YdIfvzBKZLn2GI0l2XOZuH-dsDSwuo1otSQDkGqkUUll54txWo/s640/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_05.jpg" width="422" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHtNq7BYBxHuNgGbAuoH-kGm-TWI7Y69lIw9yQQ_W67Gg1TDTDJFp2HG5XUs2diNjo49KrnMk5mD0oVjCa7U_tCQQhpi5-aOjn2AYM8DoLGtldu4tcPNgBQSWrpVfTjWO5i7jrlpbXPeI/s1600/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHtNq7BYBxHuNgGbAuoH-kGm-TWI7Y69lIw9yQQ_W67Gg1TDTDJFp2HG5XUs2diNjo49KrnMk5mD0oVjCa7U_tCQQhpi5-aOjn2AYM8DoLGtldu4tcPNgBQSWrpVfTjWO5i7jrlpbXPeI/s640/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_06.jpg" width="424" /></a></div>
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<b>Step 6 - Clamp the shock</b><br />
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Before proceeding to remove the caps from the chambers it is important to clamp the base of the shock in a vice with some soft jaws (see orange arrows) to protect the mounting. This step is essential as it keeps the shock upright preventing oil spill and helps the pins on the cap removal tools seat evenly with the locating holes of the chamber caps when they are undone.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBPU6rMJASBYDC9GfJ_Um43ga6Q0eZy6RT4nMEuqhN1JAnecNGJRmYKo9X6irOdsokmh5Q0nAy4q6lhAV2ahP89blg4mm1hCRtVntEkc1110X76H26_wvbdVM_OPyOHPvbuWOBQ4EQATg/s1600/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBPU6rMJASBYDC9GfJ_Um43ga6Q0eZy6RT4nMEuqhN1JAnecNGJRmYKo9X6irOdsokmh5Q0nAy4q6lhAV2ahP89blg4mm1hCRtVntEkc1110X76H26_wvbdVM_OPyOHPvbuWOBQ4EQATg/s640/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_07.jpg" width="406" /></a></div>
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<b>Step 7 - (-) Negative chamber cap removal</b><br />
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Compress the main piston so that the shock is fully compressed. Then line up the Large 4 pin tool with the 4 holes on top of the cap head. Then using a 42mm ratchet socket undo the head of the shock (6 full anti-clockwise turns). But, do not remove piston just yet.<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Please note:</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">DO NOT USE AN ADJUSTABLE SPANNER, MONKEY WRENCH OR RING SPANNER AS THEY CREATE UNEQUAL TURNING FORCE ON THE ADAPTOR AND HAVE NO DOWNWARDS PRESSURE.</span><br />
<br />
<b>Step 8 - (+) Positive chamber caps removal</b><br />
<br />
Line up the Small 3 pin tool with the cap holes on top of the 1st (+) positive chamber. Then using a 26mm ratchet socket undo the cap head of the chamber (6 1/4 full anti-clockwise turns). Repeat for the 2nd (+) positive chamber cap head. But, do not remove pistons just yet<br />
<br />
<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Please note:</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">DO NOT USE AN ADJUSTABLE SPANNER, MONKEY WRENCH OR RING SPANNER AS THEY CREATE UNEQUAL TURNING FORCE ON THE ADAPTOR AND HAVE NO DOWNWARDS PRESSURE.</span><br />
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<b>Step 9 - Oil removal</b><br />
<br />
It is tricky to remove the old oil from all 3 chambers at the same time. The best method I found was to use a pipette to first suck up the excess oil from (+) positive chambers. Then I connected a shock pump to the (-) negative air valve and very very gently inserted some air into the large (-) negative chamber, this will make the large piston rise and push some of the oil into the top of the (+) positive chambers. Use the pipette to suck out as much oil as you can from all 3 chambers repeating the process until as much oil as possible is removed.<br />
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Below is an image of all the old oil (around 75ml) I collected, I hardly spilt any but I imagine the amount is closer to 82ml (which is mentioned in a Spanish Powerpoint document I read on servicing the Equalizer 2)<br />
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<b>Step 10 - Large piston removal</b><br />
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With all the oil removed you should be able to force a small amount of air into the (-) negative valve to push the large piston out of the shock body. Do this very gently and hold onto the piston so that it doesn't pop out and onto the floor.<br />
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<b>Step 11 - Small pistons removal</b><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
With all the oil removed you should now be able to force a small amount of air into the (+) positive valve to push the two small pistons out of the shock body. It is a good idea to keep your fingers over the top of the open ends of the chambers so that both pistons rise to the top of each chamber. Do this very gently so they don't pop out and onto the floor.<br />
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<b>Step 12 - Bleed valve removal</b><br />
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Use the inverted slot-head screwdriver to remove both the bleed valve screws. Be extremely careful as there is a small spring and dome shaped valve pin beneath each screw and they are easy to lose.<br />
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<b>Step 13 - Completion</b><br />
<br />
You should now have you Equalizer 3 shock disassembled. Use a clean paper towel to soak up any oil residue or dirt from inside the chambers. Check the chambers for signs of wear.<br />
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<b>Step 14 - Service and reassembly</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
See my service and reassembly instructions <a href="http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.co.uk/2017/04/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock.html" target="_blank">here</a><br />
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Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3736674123822019514.post-62636825301994077152016-10-04T14:46:00.002-07:002016-10-05T06:54:16.227-07:00Syncros 236153 skewer for Scott 142-RWS12 drop-outs<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="BVRRReviewTextParagraph BVRRReviewTextFirstParagraph" style="border: 0px; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif, serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px 0px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span class="BVRRReviewText" style="background-color: white; border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; zoom: 1;">I upgraded the wheels on my Scott Genius LT40 2011 to some Easton carbons which required a larger axle. This also required me to change the rear drop outs on the frame from the standard quick release 135-RWS5 to the 142-RWS12 versions. This also meant I needed a larger diameter wheel skewer too.</span></div>
<div class="BVRRReviewTextParagraph BVRRReviewTextFirstParagraph" style="border: 0px; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif, serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px 0px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span style="background-color: white;">It was a nightmare trying to find the correct wheel skewer for two reasons. Firstly the thread on the skewer is quite fine thread. Secondly the washer at the handle end of the skewer also has a specific shape so that it clamps the wheel to the frame effectively. The main problem was trying to find skewer that had the right thread and washer combination, the search was made particularly difficult due to the poor quality of photos available on online bike stores (like <a href="http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/dt-swiss-rws-x-12-alloy/rp-prod81163" target="_blank">CRC</a>),</span></div>
<div class="BVRRReviewTextParagraph BVRRReviewTextLastParagraph" style="border: 0px; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif, serif; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px 0px 10px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; word-wrap: break-word;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><span class="BVRRReviewText" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; zoom: 1;">After having ordered two incorrect skewers (</span></span><span style="background-color: white;">DT Swiss RWS X-12 Alloy and DT Swiss RWS X-Lock Alloy)</span><span style="background-color: white;"> both of which either had the wrong thread or the wrong washer, I finally got the correct one </span><span class="BVRRReviewText" style="border: 0px; margin: 0px; outline: 0px; padding: 0px; zoom: 1;">(Syncros 236153) with a little help from the bike mechanic at my local bike shop. </span><br />
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Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3736674123822019514.post-9025660861671083612016-09-29T02:35:00.004-07:002022-03-07T11:41:46.825-08:00Scott (DT Swiss) Equalizer 3 Shock Tool<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Practically every bicycle suspension fork or shock available on the market can be taken apart and serviced with a few common tools and a little bit of patience by anyone, not just specialist service centres. Unfortunately the Equalizer 3 shock made for Scott by DT Swiss is not one of those shocks. Yes the shock is nicely engineered but it is no more complicated or difficult to service/bleed than anything else on the market - so there should be no reason why you can't do it yourself.<br />
<br />
After repeated and unfruitful enquiries to <a href="http://www.scott-sports.com/gb/en/" target="_blank">Scott</a>, <a href="https://www.dtswiss.com/Home" target="_blank">DT Swiss</a> and <a href="http://www.tftuned.com/" target="_blank">TF Tuned</a> trying to get information on disassembly instructions, seals and tools to perform the job myself I got tired of their secrecy and unwillingness to share information.<br />
<br />
So I designed my own set of tools in CAD that I will make available to my fellow mountain bike friends at the bottom of this post.<br />
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<br />
To do a basic service on the Equalizer 3 shock you need at least 3 specialist tools that you cannot purchase anywhere unless you are specialist shock servicing business. The 3 tools you need for <a href="http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock.html" target="_blank">basic disassembly</a> are as follows:<br />
<br />
<ol style="text-align: left;">
<li>An inverted slot-head screwdriver - to undo the two small bleed valves</li>
<li>A 4 pin spanner - to remove the chamber cap from the (-) negative chamber</li>
<li>A 3 pin spanner - to remove the chamber caps from the (+) positive chambers</li>
</ol>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Tool 1 - The Inverted slot-head screwdriver</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
This tool is very easy to make by hand. All you need is an old screwdriver or piece of metal rod that has a diameter of 3mm. Start by cutting the end so that it is flat. Then cut a small vertical slot in the flat end. That's it, you've now made the first tool for the bleed valves.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b>Tool 2 - The 4 pin spanner adapter</b></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
You will find a lot of similar looking tools by doing a search on Google or eBay but they will not have the correct pin diameter or arrangement of pins.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
This is the 4 pin spanner adapter I designed myself.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJMGxL3z2pmRweJ6O7dQmlErjthDM9bMDfZ9uEX345zgqkwRmNsrVRIliM8TkBnmOkJTAXzSlf2nTszniXVS299303JC_6Ui5wBeAQnLxWvizlpquGDxM6bAEiqYSuY98CIihLCpRIX7g/s1600/DT_Swiss_Scott_Equalizer_3_Tool_CAD01.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="497" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJMGxL3z2pmRweJ6O7dQmlErjthDM9bMDfZ9uEX345zgqkwRmNsrVRIliM8TkBnmOkJTAXzSlf2nTszniXVS299303JC_6Ui5wBeAQnLxWvizlpquGDxM6bAEiqYSuY98CIihLCpRIX7g/s640/DT_Swiss_Scott_Equalizer_3_Tool_CAD01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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It fits over the upper part of the piston mount and locates snugly into all 4 pins on the (-) negative chamber cap. Then all that is needed is a standard 42mm ratchet socket to undo the cap.<br />
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Please note:<br />
<br />
DO NOT USE AN ADJUSTABLE SPANNER, MONKEY WRENCH OR RING SPANNER AS THEY CREATE UNEQUAL TURNING FORCE ON THE ADAPTOR AND HAVE NO DOWNWARDS PRESSURE.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwOZQp2Uo_LTj8Ll0V7ItT9a7b9IPJgOs2sRwzGUZl22JANsu4VrGkuvh8IYj01fvbRjJ4PBGg1MEt9kttuPoa2wAfwdvbDdWnHszaHHnuGbssCPtesO8KbvP91oaruSVpWRZw-_wrpg/s1600/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_Tool_04.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="550" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwOZQp2Uo_LTj8Ll0V7ItT9a7b9IPJgOs2sRwzGUZl22JANsu4VrGkuvh8IYj01fvbRjJ4PBGg1MEt9kttuPoa2wAfwdvbDdWnHszaHHnuGbssCPtesO8KbvP91oaruSVpWRZw-_wrpg/s640/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_Tool_04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE1ZxB4TkZEMuGjCW-QUPXSOma7P9yc2dykNLoPsW-0u6V1T9_5IxHoBhI7yS_VYtlHU3Bzczwou5Y6RdsQv5gfI8yqiJJGMJauAHJf6EedUip4Oy8AmcDaw9lOXpQViLL4YkxxX8BTC0/s1600/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_Tool_02.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE1ZxB4TkZEMuGjCW-QUPXSOma7P9yc2dykNLoPsW-0u6V1T9_5IxHoBhI7yS_VYtlHU3Bzczwou5Y6RdsQv5gfI8yqiJJGMJauAHJf6EedUip4Oy8AmcDaw9lOXpQViLL4YkxxX8BTC0/s640/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_Tool_02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div>
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<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div>
<b>Tool 3 - The 3 pin spanner adapter</b></div>
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<b><br /></b></div>
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Again, you will not find anything on Google or eBay that has the correct pin diameter or arrangement of pins.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
This is the 3 pin spanner adapter I designed myself.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdvEUHyT845stPJilPf0fZrpHgMIBReFmbhdMR89WEK187TkZkys5WVXiyzt3CC94tORd_k2S8P5nok9jgbR7DZYuNW7sOGIeNyj6cQoVBbtbhxZFO4xcTDya3-wDtFYbjPH03lUyVgXU/s1600/DT_Swiss_Scott_Equalizer_3_Tool_CAD02.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="506" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdvEUHyT845stPJilPf0fZrpHgMIBReFmbhdMR89WEK187TkZkys5WVXiyzt3CC94tORd_k2S8P5nok9jgbR7DZYuNW7sOGIeNyj6cQoVBbtbhxZFO4xcTDya3-wDtFYbjPH03lUyVgXU/s640/DT_Swiss_Scott_Equalizer_3_Tool_CAD02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
It fits over and locates snugly into all 3 pins on both the (+) positive chamber caps. Then all that is needed is a <u>standard 26mm ratchet socket </u>to undo the cap.<br />
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Please note:<br />
<br />
DO NOT USE AN ADJUSTABLE SPANNER, MONKEY WRENCH OR RING SPANNER AS THEY CREATE UNEQUAL TURNING FORCE ON THE ADAPTOR AND HAVE NO DOWNWARDS PRESSURE.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0xr8TC3F8Byd9_JhincPnldOuCXKQU5GI35U830leQjXaxbi1Xtq6k0xefV03nCcJx-5XOcjdmzpZQW8WrKt8uAueJhNLD44416pJlKX8DPjKG7LLNjwvr8zdrmaa6nRrQizuD4qQWM/s1600/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_Tool_03.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="604" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0xr8TC3F8Byd9_JhincPnldOuCXKQU5GI35U830leQjXaxbi1Xtq6k0xefV03nCcJx-5XOcjdmzpZQW8WrKt8uAueJhNLD44416pJlKX8DPjKG7LLNjwvr8zdrmaa6nRrQizuD4qQWM/s640/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_Tool_03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioh_0gLbFI6MT8xFD2HjsdLa0tmQUKyWCbyQRaC6yvjnveDGr5sRr65E9pj4QnSwq6GQtnYW14c5oxiNzWeAW_0B32lE4egDlAJRhYF2GToXq6Lam4rWnXpLzdnnp2JwqJXiWU58hff-I/s1600/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_Tool_05.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioh_0gLbFI6MT8xFD2HjsdLa0tmQUKyWCbyQRaC6yvjnveDGr5sRr65E9pj4QnSwq6GQtnYW14c5oxiNzWeAW_0B32lE4egDlAJRhYF2GToXq6Lam4rWnXpLzdnnp2JwqJXiWU58hff-I/s640/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_Tool_05.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div>
<b>Now service your Equalizer 3 yourself!</b></div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
As I said at the beginning of the post I am making the 4 pin and 3 pin spanner adapters (shown below) available for my mountain bike friends (the inverted slot-head screwdriver you need to make yourself). Each adapter is made from PLA or ABS plastic printed from a Makerbot Replicator 3D printer and the locating pins are made from steel. Each adapter has been tested and is strong enough for multiple uses using the correct size socket adapter (I do not recommend the use of a standard spanner or adjustable wrench as this will put unequal turning force on the adapter).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgefgQ8ylo19qvZRktSZPq4SG9yXOTiGTGK0bahZ-2pLF5sO-ayWciFVQOcWiO0VPvRySTi2mpCJpLGGjAzmcIv4-z0FczEL_ghqZJ3DWv-4VLb5YOMI_zc7K_7oc7oo0vrhW2kM2qXJQk/s1600/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_Tool.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgefgQ8ylo19qvZRktSZPq4SG9yXOTiGTGK0bahZ-2pLF5sO-ayWciFVQOcWiO0VPvRySTi2mpCJpLGGjAzmcIv4-z0FczEL_ghqZJ3DWv-4VLb5YOMI_zc7K_7oc7oo0vrhW2kM2qXJQk/s640/Scott_DT_Swiss_Equalizer_3_Tool.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://i2.wp.com/xmdsource.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/paypal-logo.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="213" data-original-width="594" height="114" src="https://i2.wp.com/xmdsource.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/paypal-logo.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<div><div style="color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Please use one of the two blue PayPal links below and I will send you 1 x 4 pin tool and 1 x 3 pin tool. Please include your <b>NAME, ADDRESS and TELEPHONE</b> when you make the transaction.</div><div style="color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></div><div style="color: #444444; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><b>PayPal Links:</b></div></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="http://paypal.me/fridayshoes/55" target="_blank">UK mountain bike friends - 1 x 4 pin adapter & 1 x 3 pin adapter for £55 inc. P&P</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<a href="http://paypal.me/fridayshoes/60" target="_blank">INTERNATIONAL mountain bike friends - 1 x 4 pin adapter & 1 x 3 pin adapter for £60 inc. P&P</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
Please note 1: Please allow between 10-30 days for delivery depending on where you live.<br />
<br />
Please note 2: The 3D design files are NOT available for download.<br />
<br />
Please note 3: Remember these tools are not made of metal, they are plastic, but they are strong enough to do the job multiple times if they are used in the correct way - DO NOT USE THEM WITH ADJUSTABLE SPANNERS, MONKEY WRENCHES OR RING SPANNERS. ONLY USE THEM WITH RATCHET SOCKETS.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br /></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">Please note 4: The tools listed on on this page will only work with the Equalizer 3. If you need tools for the Equalizer 2, then go to this <a href="https://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.com/2022/03/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-2-shock-tool.html" target="_blank">page</a>.<br />
<br />
Feel free to ask questions or leave a review in the comments box below.<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.com67tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3736674123822019514.post-63315602669249812372014-07-11T08:49:00.000-07:002014-07-11T08:50:23.089-07:00How to redirect www traffic to non-www url in Joomla when using SSL certificates<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
If you just want to direct www traffic to you non-www URL then use this <a href="http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.ae/2014/07/how-to-redirect-www-traffic-to-non-www.html" target="_blank">guide</a> to edit your .htaccess file.<br />
<br />
But if like me you want to add an SSL certificate to your site you will find that the following will happen:<br />
<br />
http://mysite.com will got to http://mysite.com<br />
http://www.mysite.com will go to http://mysite.com<br />
https://mysite.com will go to https://mysite.com<br />
https://www.mysite.com will go to http://mysite.com (we want this to go to https, not http)<br />
<br />
To do this we use the following instruction:<br />
<br />
<pre style="background-image: URL(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXiB4inuxFcwnbPPVlrfsiCYNVZnTxPTJ_4BRIqLJRzWoaINkVHSj78ycv08jk4kr77i_UUkkrgrFVpxaU1aHAXncgEaSjHzd2v-iyUKcrSFY9ncMVbMWFmr0hPOFlQ532mCYgu8EEzZd9/s320/codebg.gif); background: #f0f0f0; border: 1px dashed #CCCCCC; color: black; font-family: arial; font-size: 12px; height: auto; line-height: 20px; overflow: auto; padding: 0px; text-align: left; width: 99%;"><code style="color: black; word-wrap: normal;"> RewriteEngine On
RewriteCond %{HTTP_HOST} !^mysite\.com
RewriteCond %{HTTPS}s on(s)|
RewriteRule (.*) http%1://mysite.com/$1 [R=301,L]
</code></pre>
</div>
Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3736674123822019514.post-63339734684100326982014-07-11T07:29:00.003-07:002014-07-11T08:50:43.896-07:00How to redirect www traffic to non-www url in Joomla<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
One of the first things you should set up when putting together a Joomla website is a redirect instruction in the .htaccess file.<br />
<br />
The purpose of this instruction is to redirect www.mysite.com URL's to mysite.com. This ensures that SEO and anyone copying a link to your site will always use the same URL of http://mysite.com. This is also especially important when accumulating Facebook 'Likes' as they will accumulate from one URL address rather than two.<br />
<br />
<pre style="background-image: URL(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXiB4inuxFcwnbPPVlrfsiCYNVZnTxPTJ_4BRIqLJRzWoaINkVHSj78ycv08jk4kr77i_UUkkrgrFVpxaU1aHAXncgEaSjHzd2v-iyUKcrSFY9ncMVbMWFmr0hPOFlQ532mCYgu8EEzZd9/s320/codebg.gif); background: #f0f0f0; border: 1px dashed #CCCCCC; color: black; font-family: arial; font-size: 12px; height: auto; line-height: 20px; overflow: auto; padding: 0px; text-align: left; width: 99%;"><code style="color: black; word-wrap: normal;"> RewriteEngine On
RewriteCond %{HTTP_HOST} !^mysite\.com
RewriteRule (.*) http://mysite.com/$1 [R=301,L]
</code></pre>
</div>
Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3736674123822019514.post-40052343530078185042014-01-24T03:21:00.001-08:002014-01-24T04:50:42.225-08:00Xbox One PSU Tear Down and how to repair<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A friend of mine was going to Los Angeles for a business trip and since I'd heard there was a big price difference between an Xbox One from the UK (£429) and an Xbox One in the USA ($499 = £301) I asked them to pick me one up.<br />
<br />
For some reason I assumed that the Xbox One would be supplied with a dual voltage power pack (as is the case with most technology like laptops and mobile phones these days). Even though the supplied PSU had a US plug I assumed (wrongly) that it would work with the 240v UK power system, I didn't bother to check the specifications on the underside of the brick (where is states 110v only).<br />
<br />
What happened next was a loud pop and a smell of burning electrics as I plugged the PSU into the mains socket (using a US to UK plug adapter). Fortunately I hadn't plugged the Xbox One console itself into the PSU, so at least I shouldn't have to replace the whole console.<br />
<br />
I then set about contacting support on the Xbox Live website to see if I could source a replacement PSU. Fortunately they sell replacement PSU's for around £30 inc P&P, so I ordered one. The only problem is the 10-20 day wait, I guess they're still struggling to build these things to meet demand.<br />
<br />
So since I have a duff PSU I thought I'd see if I could repair it myself, so here's a work in progress of the Xbox One PSU tear down, analysis of problem and repair (hopefully).<br />
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<br />
<b>THE TEAR DOWN</b><br />
<br />
Here's the underside markings of the PSU I'm taking apart:<br />
<br />
Model A12-220N1A<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDoQVEwk7aSGve2NMyoZdBl654dBZFhiSH82b3jgQTDw95w6l4vTFzJ0cJBgpWYXT3A7hiBq3Osmgew5cD3QwR9GqIgFVBuEgNZK9-2we6vXyQu0y5F5eUgNWImXEyxiiKh9AWeTr_jMI/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_(0).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDoQVEwk7aSGve2NMyoZdBl654dBZFhiSH82b3jgQTDw95w6l4vTFzJ0cJBgpWYXT3A7hiBq3Osmgew5cD3QwR9GqIgFVBuEgNZK9-2we6vXyQu0y5F5eUgNWImXEyxiiKh9AWeTr_jMI/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_(0).jpg" height="640" width="478" /></a></div>
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To get inside the PSU you first need to slide a knife under the four rubber feet on the base and cut them off, there's no point trying to lever them off as you'll just destroy them. You can always stick them back on with double-sided tape later.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4aq74Oh5U2dzFOiJgEKBW8Yj1AL5YqwB1-qBvj24Q4u5vJQBIgpg7LYjGqriYBO6gPRLRnqjM9HKhkZRHkpyZQeuGrFsRQAAtrm5FqCFDP09ypGSyQEFfBgM5QVm8C7M8nOOiR8mX2k/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4aq74Oh5U2dzFOiJgEKBW8Yj1AL5YqwB1-qBvj24Q4u5vJQBIgpg7LYjGqriYBO6gPRLRnqjM9HKhkZRHkpyZQeuGrFsRQAAtrm5FqCFDP09ypGSyQEFfBgM5QVm8C7M8nOOiR8mX2k/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(1).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now you need a small screwdriver to dig out the plastic cap by inserting it into the small hole in the centre of the rubber foot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6ha1qUOvs7hV1ejBHHacOqC3wdYOBfR8FIe0yBAfLRPugqphAp19-FbtQl2frXpAdYVIJoF5AMSI_8f_qjZ_alYT6OhGO8gRyZ4dWjawGqtGWX5PO-e6mZ33Uq4TI3UhQguQfFcZYmk/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6ha1qUOvs7hV1ejBHHacOqC3wdYOBfR8FIe0yBAfLRPugqphAp19-FbtQl2frXpAdYVIJoF5AMSI_8f_qjZ_alYT6OhGO8gRyZ4dWjawGqtGWX5PO-e6mZ33Uq4TI3UhQguQfFcZYmk/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(2).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLy6op_LcfstbgNaCnY8cYm_51lFRmRzfRfSaKHBLXiQM-kqaa1cnpykB6lhjo7izbwmVxi4jzr9sSyS2Wji8vNSJSuFNkS-5Ef3FUBzJOwg0l9tHlVsC7BP3yLYEOcVtRHxv3-Hc5pdM/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLy6op_LcfstbgNaCnY8cYm_51lFRmRzfRfSaKHBLXiQM-kqaa1cnpykB6lhjo7izbwmVxi4jzr9sSyS2Wji8vNSJSuFNkS-5Ef3FUBzJOwg0l9tHlVsC7BP3yLYEOcVtRHxv3-Hc5pdM/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(3).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Now you can see the torque security screws<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqbXijQ02H9Hp5dDW9Bcr6wo0lIjDezMeakRHK3q0Whj1NGwNrD3ke2s3qtVo35fLSVWgNONGtaCv3VKxSngY4BqFadcPfPd-wv2gb6zcTs6PDXsvsBpAvfWYYqa0nyXIynqXjp91Ojzk/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(4).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqbXijQ02H9Hp5dDW9Bcr6wo0lIjDezMeakRHK3q0Whj1NGwNrD3ke2s3qtVo35fLSVWgNONGtaCv3VKxSngY4BqFadcPfPd-wv2gb6zcTs6PDXsvsBpAvfWYYqa0nyXIynqXjp91Ojzk/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(4).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
You'll need a T10H (6 point star bit with hole in the centre) to remove the 4 screws<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE3X1az58KVCctdE2bbUBRSFAw_Xjn-kBdCEHxKaKXVBV421Kilgl-QaiAdO2PlydfqEt6T1GPsCA0zP79N-O_YflSU5HPKqRMsvgGbO8DO5c-tFTbHwMnPjkD1s6TSCTo-7_ce23DFPY/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(8).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE3X1az58KVCctdE2bbUBRSFAw_Xjn-kBdCEHxKaKXVBV421Kilgl-QaiAdO2PlydfqEt6T1GPsCA0zP79N-O_YflSU5HPKqRMsvgGbO8DO5c-tFTbHwMnPjkD1s6TSCTo-7_ce23DFPY/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(8).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP3kGP5w8yB99yahSfaDYP8wUrcidFCeh-Ej3N9ekblmKyLv8W3XTwL-EFADFCVMpYw5INsoPvvRc_2Q4FdYy_eqsO5RG1SFHGHB0bVQ1YeBj7wzGn2Lagxmv6cKF_L8sy1H8SQXL1gP8/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(9).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP3kGP5w8yB99yahSfaDYP8wUrcidFCeh-Ej3N9ekblmKyLv8W3XTwL-EFADFCVMpYw5INsoPvvRc_2Q4FdYy_eqsO5RG1SFHGHB0bVQ1YeBj7wzGn2Lagxmv6cKF_L8sy1H8SQXL1gP8/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(9).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Once the screws are removed you can separate the two halves of the power supply case with a little wiggling. The top half of the case houses the PSU fan, simply disconnect the fan cable from the main board.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxyaixsiQMylJrUZ-lio_fZfolLDya-XtshuqUjoNW6L5-TTTrCXurqcLEFx3iYLeNe87ZdF5aJtx5SGR60NI4EjzAFNJN5BijF4Rnw7Bfx7JtdgqGeGSDeFeyNfsU5iiO5_QRqVb6eIU/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(11).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxyaixsiQMylJrUZ-lio_fZfolLDya-XtshuqUjoNW6L5-TTTrCXurqcLEFx3iYLeNe87ZdF5aJtx5SGR60NI4EjzAFNJN5BijF4Rnw7Bfx7JtdgqGeGSDeFeyNfsU5iiO5_QRqVb6eIU/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(11).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6oB03eo_kV69yver9rDJx8ybL7zikh9lFAQhyphenhyphen8aUVhGmXZeXUnpbdVnU1ElqgiHUuu5AMEEXry7AAHktluIrn8UZa63IUEFAcqkRXrx7XSsys1IcwBqA5VDN4k1pT8AINsoTMGRkq3ks/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(12).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6oB03eo_kV69yver9rDJx8ybL7zikh9lFAQhyphenhyphen8aUVhGmXZeXUnpbdVnU1ElqgiHUuu5AMEEXry7AAHktluIrn8UZa63IUEFAcqkRXrx7XSsys1IcwBqA5VDN4k1pT8AINsoTMGRkq3ks/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(12).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Here's the fan assembly disconnected<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEgwC0nly6SHZieoDT58TJrRL2lAAY6s74DrZG3BPmVSMWqLucoPsKIWTwdITjiAqLY9aPR0jH0i74qmr7AmNxATun3-0-oiLDKiJPuSq6OeT1NivKrV9q2Qgp353nzAJMD24qMKDS9I/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(13).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEgwC0nly6SHZieoDT58TJrRL2lAAY6s74DrZG3BPmVSMWqLucoPsKIWTwdITjiAqLY9aPR0jH0i74qmr7AmNxATun3-0-oiLDKiJPuSq6OeT1NivKrV9q2Qgp353nzAJMD24qMKDS9I/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(13).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Be careful not to lose the plastic light from the corner<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7BP_K04Svl1ikJIBHZbZW12TKDfO9hMxud2DVdYqyrrwNBKrfs2EOGzNC4GQB72d1bMfaW2VXANnYwrj12yO-eagY39pz_wXyttH3ZZ3XsXC3OqchVJ4HmMf-9u5LstaCuiPh0l57GQ/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(15).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7BP_K04Svl1ikJIBHZbZW12TKDfO9hMxud2DVdYqyrrwNBKrfs2EOGzNC4GQB72d1bMfaW2VXANnYwrj12yO-eagY39pz_wXyttH3ZZ3XsXC3OqchVJ4HmMf-9u5LstaCuiPh0l57GQ/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(15).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
Next we get our first glimpse of the main board itself, it's pretty obvious where the burnout has occured judging by the blackness.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrhznjJvpofQeQVmH0TVaMMcr7YuTd9Qwha1Yio-xKGm5uVRhQB_J54jHcXkeA5n9D3HC8D1PmUXIdY27FPRhQffQ1sO4NcfVjH33pnBCz8vbmrRtAfiYSNXj8JxFb6iUTdxzsWB4Phmw/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(14).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrhznjJvpofQeQVmH0TVaMMcr7YuTd9Qwha1Yio-xKGm5uVRhQB_J54jHcXkeA5n9D3HC8D1PmUXIdY27FPRhQffQ1sO4NcfVjH33pnBCz8vbmrRtAfiYSNXj8JxFb6iUTdxzsWB4Phmw/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(14).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
To further investigate the damage we need to de-solder the plastic shielding from the base, there's a tab at each end.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYQqgWwjr1lBI5SdRAEtHSNXs08OwIUY2nSCu8RBzBH18xnlkFjU_W1DMaDbiFTyvmVpznkYWGmK1-V0TwB-OTV13CEdE_21Hcyyhy4D-wY943OXaCNSf_LnvlkDRzcx8vIFxDABSCjW4/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(16).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYQqgWwjr1lBI5SdRAEtHSNXs08OwIUY2nSCu8RBzBH18xnlkFjU_W1DMaDbiFTyvmVpznkYWGmK1-V0TwB-OTV13CEdE_21Hcyyhy4D-wY943OXaCNSf_LnvlkDRzcx8vIFxDABSCjW4/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(16).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXWCljRvDb9ha_3emoo4EpzQXMGPzrvVEiAlZl24h73lwgWm3x9OhltjmYkMpDX3S9oymIB4D4vL7UA8WycG8s-yM6Om4JjCge7DM4XSz0FvSZiy25Ejhh8LabbqGAhGslxrlTwvM_4v8/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(17).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXWCljRvDb9ha_3emoo4EpzQXMGPzrvVEiAlZl24h73lwgWm3x9OhltjmYkMpDX3S9oymIB4D4vL7UA8WycG8s-yM6Om4JjCge7DM4XSz0FvSZiy25Ejhh8LabbqGAhGslxrlTwvM_4v8/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(17).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
This reveals the base of the board, again it is clear to see where excessive heat has been present in the bottom right corner.<br />
<br />
Markings on the board read:<br />
<br />
Chicony Power Technology<br />
A220P001L A12-220P1A [ ]<br />
A220R001L A12-220N1A [/]<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAloC3A89qAr8iD6WBlm0mzI-PzANANLo48wK3lwhyphenhyphenRi1pS1k9hS0zO5r4Ako17YWjk5z9JZFQgcCBFogTC9uiU6941Y3fUStbUFI1Igno248ai5rdRFZI3aePVM3az2pEBMyaJvksZBE/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(18).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAloC3A89qAr8iD6WBlm0mzI-PzANANLo48wK3lwhyphenhyphenRi1pS1k9hS0zO5r4Ako17YWjk5z9JZFQgcCBFogTC9uiU6941Y3fUStbUFI1Igno248ai5rdRFZI3aePVM3az2pEBMyaJvksZBE/s1600/Xbox_One_PSU_+(18).jpg" height="478" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
More to follow soon....<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>OTHER INFORMATION</b><br />
<br />
Some <a href="http://www.xboxland.net/forum/topic/117027-%D1%80%D0%B5%D1%88%D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%B5-%D0%BF%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%B1%D0%BB%D0%B5%D0%BC%D1%8B-%D0%B0%D0%BC%D0%B5%D1%80%D0%B8%D0%BA%D0%B0%D0%BD%D1%81%D0%BA%D0%BE%D0%B3%D0%BE-%D0%B1%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%BA%D0%B0-%D0%BF%D0%B8%D1%82%D0%B0%D0%BD%D0%B8%D1%8F/page-6" target="_blank">Russian</a> and <a href="http://m.mydrivers.com/newsview.aspx?id=287972&cid=1" target="_blank">Chinese</a> links where they are converting the 110v PSU's to 240v by removing a few components.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3736674123822019514.post-67505288782884634522013-07-27T09:08:00.002-07:002013-07-27T09:53:14.429-07:00Bluetooth can't discover devices in Windows 7 & 8 on HP Envy 17 Laptop<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This annoying problem occurred twice when my HP Envy 17 laptop was running Windows 7 and more recently after having upgraded to Windows 8 several months ago.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
In all instances the problem occurred for seemingly no reason whatsoever, there had been no driver changes or upgrades to the system. When I was running Windows 7 I was unable to get the internal Broadcom bluetooth card working again (I researched and tried various driver removal and installation tutorials on the web and none of them worked). The only option was to completely reinstall Windows 7 from scratch with the latest drivers and this got everything working as it should.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
More recently having upgraded to Windows 8 (from a clean installation) everything bluetooth was working fine for several months. Then one evening whilst using my laptop my Microsoft Wireless Notebook Presenter Mouse 8000 just stopped working (the discovery light was blinking on the base). I tried to re-pair it with the laptop but nothing would appear in the list of devices when going to the 'Add a Bluetooth Device' option on the bluetooth icon in the task bar. After confirming that the laptop was unable to discover any bluetooth devices that I set to discoverable (such as my phone), then I used the following procedure to get everything working again.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
1. Go to device manager</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
2. Uninstall 'Broadcom 2070 Bluetooth' device</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO_dss8ITJrlQyzy21-J1-8T4_nFeS4h5fDttVhSEwjGL1XYZQ1YnGkfYQ-9jF3Ya5qvOkuCSDFO7iR60hUPwsOCg23Dg7iBvUE74SKTZcwhzJq9F0SqLGGBlaiIz5k6FSArlu0sALvoY/s1600/device+manager.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO_dss8ITJrlQyzy21-J1-8T4_nFeS4h5fDttVhSEwjGL1XYZQ1YnGkfYQ-9jF3Ya5qvOkuCSDFO7iR60hUPwsOCg23Dg7iBvUE74SKTZcwhzJq9F0SqLGGBlaiIz5k6FSArlu0sALvoY/s640/device+manager.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
3. Restart machine</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
4. Go back to device manager<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
5. Uninstall 'Generic Bluetooth' device</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
6. Go to <a href="http://www.broadcom.com/support/bluetooth/update.php" target="_blank">Broadcom site</a>, then download and install latest Broadcom drivers</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
7. Go back to device manager</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
8. Right click on Broadcom 2070, select properties, select power management, untick 'Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power'</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHvGiyPVC7h0Z9IKZOembA1sH3tNQ9L-38qquad7BHTRH86gHWv0ANH54F_5Q9PO_OT-Ve4YMaRNfeLfPyQyw7KR0FgVarcyh491CMrjcjR3YITKcrn5DAq1P2FoHe9vVBABlXIpIXKV0/s1600/broadcom+2070+bluetooth+properties.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="466" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHvGiyPVC7h0Z9IKZOembA1sH3tNQ9L-38qquad7BHTRH86gHWv0ANH54F_5Q9PO_OT-Ve4YMaRNfeLfPyQyw7KR0FgVarcyh491CMrjcjR3YITKcrn5DAq1P2FoHe9vVBABlXIpIXKV0/s640/broadcom+2070+bluetooth+properties.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
9. Go to Bluetooth icon, select 'Show Bluetooth Devices'</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizr5qW79LLbpZLCKS4yJTS7lRC7NsX-J2W0EKwK1v9oFhn_OIYEqS8nHfW_pO1ApI-NHOozoEURulpTrH1dAnj3zHN95D_-Pi6UYIq2sXFjkyjKvrJYVd6MTNtyYJqZI58OzIEA5D58zU/s1600/show+bluetooth+devices.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="502" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizr5qW79LLbpZLCKS4yJTS7lRC7NsX-J2W0EKwK1v9oFhn_OIYEqS8nHfW_pO1ApI-NHOozoEURulpTrH1dAnj3zHN95D_-Pi6UYIq2sXFjkyjKvrJYVd6MTNtyYJqZI58OzIEA5D58zU/s640/show+bluetooth+devices.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
10. Remove <b>ALL</b> previously connected Bluetooth devices by clicking the device and selecting the minus symbol, then the remove button (ie. Creative D200 speakers, Microsoft Wireless Notebook Presenter Mouse 8000)</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8W3VOZsFkkP0pJpW5-CXoPB_vHgOW446jIPbm4pV64gyLCqOaEC92wgzGeVZfDb7PB_RK01TJJDCJjrvK6MPteK3PZSDxAXk-_FhjIkm0r0eYRk9ejoz3hLnmgTUBh6razsLNJb-I02M/s1600/Devices.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8W3VOZsFkkP0pJpW5-CXoPB_vHgOW446jIPbm4pV64gyLCqOaEC92wgzGeVZfDb7PB_RK01TJJDCJjrvK6MPteK3PZSDxAXk-_FhjIkm0r0eYRk9ejoz3hLnmgTUBh6razsLNJb-I02M/s640/Devices.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
11. If it says can't remove, go back to device manager, select bluetooth, then right click each bluetooth device in the list and select uninstall ie. Creative D200, Microsoftt Wireless Presenter Mouse. <b>DO NOT UNINSTALL - Broadcom 2070 Bluetooth, Microsoft Bluetooth Enumerator or Service Discovery</b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><br /></b></div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1GN0w65Ae85W4Llf40mf-ZTaOk4StSUoFXCbdVZpDMXjyMIG3JrObv2g-FwGxSSaHMpM635QHfRAoOlpVRrlHdv4hSLYc_t-pXgYSAlmeaYtWnwsED0h50KjOWAX6u_zDh1iDkLubv0/s1600/uninstall+device.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="468" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1GN0w65Ae85W4Llf40mf-ZTaOk4StSUoFXCbdVZpDMXjyMIG3JrObv2g-FwGxSSaHMpM635QHfRAoOlpVRrlHdv4hSLYc_t-pXgYSAlmeaYtWnwsED0h50KjOWAX6u_zDh1iDkLubv0/s640/uninstall+device.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
12. Go back to the Bluetooth icon, select 'Show Bluetooth Devices'</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
13. Remove all previously connected Bluetooth devices (they should now remove without problems)<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
14. Click 'Add A Device' (Make sure your Bluetooth Devices are set to discoverable)<br />
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
15. You should now be able to select and install all your bluetooth devices.<br />
<ol style="text-align: left;">
</ol>
</div>
</div>
Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3736674123822019514.post-49100104888010651342013-07-10T05:19:00.001-07:002013-07-11T23:01:41.272-07:00How to repair Gear Selector on a Ford Transit Connect van<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsWGbZOSP-IyDcPVC1fhYdK3Mvitfche40vdDw99BRaNKF7EHrqFXhlfwGIPAlRkkrkWM44HIZIPnxcbBzl4oxfsIbYTc6kuWaBPnSG8YBviACTEAKh-BUI3wxC4VMxaof71JbaMwJnlM/s1600/Ford_Transit_Connect.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsWGbZOSP-IyDcPVC1fhYdK3Mvitfche40vdDw99BRaNKF7EHrqFXhlfwGIPAlRkkrkWM44HIZIPnxcbBzl4oxfsIbYTc6kuWaBPnSG8YBviACTEAKh-BUI3wxC4VMxaof71JbaMwJnlM/s640/Ford_Transit_Connect.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b>THE WHY</b><br />
<br />
Having returned home for Christmas I borrowed my Dad's Ford Transit Connect van for a small errand I had to run. I'd stopped in the queue for some traffic lights and dropped it into neutral as normal whilst I waited for the lights to go green. When they eventually did, I shifted into first (the gear stick felt slightly odd, kind of loose) and as I went to pull away there was no drive engagement, I tried to reselect the gear again and the same thing happened - nothing. I even tried second, third, forth, fifth and reverse, all had nothing. Fortunately a driver behind me helped me push the van to the side of the road and I called the AA for roadside assistance. About 30 minutes later the bright yellow recovery vehicle showed up and after 15 minutes inspecting the cause the AA mechanic concluded that something in the transmission had gone wrong which meant a tow back to the destination of my choice. Being Christmas and with no local mechanics at work until after the New Year the only place we could take it was home. The AA guy mentioned that Ford Transits are quite susceptible to problems with the gear selector mechanism and the two cables that connect it to the gear stick. So once we had it home I did a bit of research on the internet to see if it was a common problem, turns out it is, but as is often the case there isn't a good tutorial out there to follow. So with the help of this <a href="http://fordtransit.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=26057" target="_blank">post</a> on the Ford Transit forum I decided to investigate for myself.<br />
<br />
<b>THE TASK</b><br />
<br />
You will need the following:<br />
<br />
10mm socket<br />
13mm socket<br />
15mm deep socket<br />
19mm socket<br />
Extension bars for socket set<br />
Universal socket adapter<br />
Trolley jack<br />
Torch/flashlight<br />
Small wire brush (optional)<br />
Impact wrench (makes life a lot easier)<br />
Penetrating oil (optional)<br />
Small heat gun/blow torch (optional)<br />
Flat bladed screwdriver<br />
Cross head screwdriver<br />
Telescopic magnetic pickup tool<br />
<br />
<b>THE HOW TO</b><br />
<br />
(Amateur mechanic job time approx 2-3 hours)<br />
<br />
Before I started taking the vehicle apart I took some time to confirm that it was indeed a problem with the transmission selector mechanism and not the two flexi-cables that transfer the movements of the gear stick in the cabin to the gear selector in the engine bay. This is relatively easy to do but you need someone else to sit in the cab and move the gear stick forwards/backwards and then side-to-side whilst you peer down into the right-hand side of the engine compartment with a good flashlight (You should be looking in the area marked by the red circle in the 1st image further down this post). If the cables are okay you should see movement here above the transmission when the gear stick is moved side-to-side and then separately forwards/backwards. If either of these two operations doesn't make anything move then you have a problem with either/both of the cables or the gear stick itself. You can check the cables at the gear stick end by just pulling up the rubber gator and you will see they are attached to the stick.<br />
<br />
In the case of my Dad's van we had movement in the engine bay when the gear stick was moved in both directions so this meant the cables were okay and that the problem was somewhere deeper in the transmission and more specifically the selector mechanism.<br />
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To get things under-way you first need to remove the air box (next to the battery) in the top-right corner of the engine bay, undo the four screws on each corner of the box and cut the big cable tie that secures the box to the air intake tube. You should then be able to wiggle the top half of the box free (blue arrow shows top half of airbox sitting on engine after removal) and expose the air filter and lower section of the air-box (this has been removed from the picture but it sits in the area where the orange circle is). Put the air filter somewhere clean and remove the the lower section of air-box which is only pressed into place - so a good tug and wiggle will remove it.<br />
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Now you should then see the right hand engine mount; the centre nut secures the mount to the transmission and the four surrounding nuts secure the mount to the frame of the vehicle (marked by the orange circle below).<br />
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Next you need to place a trolley jack underneath the transmission, this is to support the weight of the transmission and engine when you come to remove the right-hand engine mount.<br />
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Important: Remember you are NOT jacking up the car, you are just using the jack to support the weight of the transmission.<br />
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Before you remove the engine mount it's a good idea to disconnect the positive and negative wires from the battery, undo the bolt from the battery clamp along the front edge of the battery. Then lift and remove the battery completely free from the vehicle to expose the battery tray below. Not only is this necessary but it will give you more space to work effectively.<br />
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With the transmission supported, you can now release and remove the large central nut in the centre of engine mount. This detaches detaches the transmission from the mount. You may notice the van rise slightly as the weight is released due to the van's suspension. Compensate this by jacking up the gearbox slightly more.<br />
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Next you need to remove the engine mount itself, which is secured by four nuts, one of each corner of the mount. For us, this was the hardest part of the whole job as the nuts were seized (probably because any water that gets inside the engine bay just sits here as there is nowhere for it to drain). Even wire brushing the threads, using penetrating oil, an impact wrench and heat we only managed to remove three of them, the fourth one in the top right corner had to be drilled and cut with a nut-cracker to remove it - but we did it. Once the nuts are removed the engine mount can be pulled out, it may take a bit of effort depending if it rusted to the black tray below. We had to tap ours with a hammer to initially break the rust seal.<br />
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After this, undo the three bolts that secure the plastic battery tray to the vehicle (shown by the blue arrows below).<br />
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Before you can remove the plastic tray you will probably find that all the wires and hoses that surround it are clipped to it. Think there were about hlaf-a-dozen clips to press/lever out with the blade of a screwdriver before the tray would come completely free.<br />
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With the battery tray removed it's time to undo the two 10mm bolts (see blue arrows in the picture below) that secure the air-box tray to the vehicle. With these removed you can now remove the air-box tray.<br />
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Before we can truly get the selector mechanism we need to remove the engine mount support bracket (shown inside the red circle below) that is attached by three large bolts (see blue arrows below) to the transmission itself. Some extension bars, universal socket adapter and the impact wrench made light work of these. You can now remove the engine mount support bracket and you should have an almost clear view of the top of the transmission and the ends of the gear selector cables where they attach by ball-joint to the selector mechanism and the selector mechanism itself.<br />
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Disconnect the cables (see red circles below) from the selector mechanism by pressing the black plastic button on (centre top) of the ball-joint on each.<br />
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Now depending how dirty it is around the selector mechanism you might want to give it a clean down before you remove it. This will avoid any grit and general crap falling into the workings of transmission when you remove the selector.<br />
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To remove the selector mechanism there are 6 x 10mm bolts that surround it (shown by the blue arrows below). Undo each of these, the one on the far right is longer than rest so pay attention where it goes when it comes to put things back together. Also make sure you disconnect the electrical sensor (see red arrow below) that attaches to the housing too.<br />
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With the bolts removed you can now carefully pull the whole selector mechanism up and free from the transmission and manoeuvre it out of the engine compartment. Picture below shows the hole where the selector mechanism used to be.<br />
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At this point it's a good idea to dip a telescopic magnetic pen into the transmission hole and deep into the oil as far down as it will go. This is simply a precautionary measure to pick up any bits of metal that may have broken off from the selector mechanism. Fortunately in our case we had a clean break so no fragments of metal were found.<br />
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Here is the selector mechanism assembly completely removed from the car.<br />
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Next, take a look at the main shaft that runs through the selector mechanism. The pin that Ford use is called a 'Roll Pin' (see example picture below), they do not sell this part on its own, instead they prefer you to buy the whole selector mechanism which is totally unnecessary and costly at around £250 for the whole unit you see in the above picture.<br />
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If you can see a hole on the shaft (see the small red circle below) then the pin has snapped. The pin is used to attach the shaft to the selector mechanism (see blue arrow). If you're lucky like me all 3 pieces of the pin will still be stuck in the holes of the shaft and selector mechanism. Disassemble the selector mechanism by pulling the shaft all the way out. You then just need to tap the remnants of the pin out with a similar diameter bolt/screwdriver and hammer. This is good time to give all the components of the selector mechanism a good clean ready for reassembly.<br />
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With the pin removed, reassemble the shaft into the selector mechanism components and select a bolt that has a snug fit for the hole. You may need to cut the bolt length down so that it doesn't interfere with the motion of the mechanism. Use a nyloc nut on the end of the bolt. You should end up with something like the picture below. Bolt inserted from the green arrow side and blue arrow shows the nyloc nut and margin of acceptable thread left.<br />
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All that is left to do is put the selector into neutral and reverse the whole process to put the car back together.<br />
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Davehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02453087378158817318noreply@blogger.com37