A friend of mine was going to Los Angeles for a business trip and since I'd heard there was a big price difference between an Xbox One from the UK (£429) and an Xbox One in the USA ($499 = £301) I asked them to pick me one up.
For some reason I assumed that the Xbox One would be supplied with a dual voltage power pack (as is the case with most technology like laptops and mobile phones these days). Even though the supplied PSU had a US plug I assumed (wrongly) that it would work with the 240v UK power system, I didn't bother to check the specifications on the underside of the brick (where is states 110v only).
What happened next was a loud pop and a smell of burning electrics as I plugged the PSU into the mains socket (using a US to UK plug adapter). Fortunately I hadn't plugged the Xbox One console itself into the PSU, so at least I shouldn't have to replace the whole console.
I then set about contacting support on the Xbox Live website to see if I could source a replacement PSU. Fortunately they sell replacement PSU's for around £30 inc P&P, so I ordered one. The only problem is the 10-20 day wait, I guess they're still struggling to build these things to meet demand.
So since I have a duff PSU I thought I'd see if I could repair it myself, so here's a work in progress of the Xbox One PSU tear down, analysis of problem and repair (hopefully).
THE TEAR DOWN
Here's the underside markings of the PSU I'm taking apart:
Model A12-220N1A
To get inside the PSU you first need to slide a knife under the four rubber feet on the base and cut them off, there's no point trying to lever them off as you'll just destroy them. You can always stick them back on with double-sided tape later.
Now you need a small screwdriver to dig out the plastic cap by inserting it into the small hole in the centre of the rubber foot.
Now you can see the torque security screws
You'll need a T10H (6 point star bit with hole in the centre) to remove the 4 screws
Once the screws are removed you can separate the two halves of the power supply case with a little wiggling. The top half of the case houses the PSU fan, simply disconnect the fan cable from the main board.
Here's the fan assembly disconnected
Be careful not to lose the plastic light from the corner
Next we get our first glimpse of the main board itself, it's pretty obvious where the burnout has occured judging by the blackness.
To further investigate the damage we need to de-solder the plastic shielding from the base, there's a tab at each end.
This reveals the base of the board, again it is clear to see where excessive heat has been present in the bottom right corner.
Markings on the board read:
Chicony Power Technology
A220P001L A12-220P1A [ ]
A220R001L A12-220N1A [/]
More to follow soon....
OTHER INFORMATION
Some Russian and Chinese links where they are converting the 110v PSU's to 240v by removing a few components.
For some reason I assumed that the Xbox One would be supplied with a dual voltage power pack (as is the case with most technology like laptops and mobile phones these days). Even though the supplied PSU had a US plug I assumed (wrongly) that it would work with the 240v UK power system, I didn't bother to check the specifications on the underside of the brick (where is states 110v only).
What happened next was a loud pop and a smell of burning electrics as I plugged the PSU into the mains socket (using a US to UK plug adapter). Fortunately I hadn't plugged the Xbox One console itself into the PSU, so at least I shouldn't have to replace the whole console.
I then set about contacting support on the Xbox Live website to see if I could source a replacement PSU. Fortunately they sell replacement PSU's for around £30 inc P&P, so I ordered one. The only problem is the 10-20 day wait, I guess they're still struggling to build these things to meet demand.
So since I have a duff PSU I thought I'd see if I could repair it myself, so here's a work in progress of the Xbox One PSU tear down, analysis of problem and repair (hopefully).
THE TEAR DOWN
Here's the underside markings of the PSU I'm taking apart:
Model A12-220N1A
To get inside the PSU you first need to slide a knife under the four rubber feet on the base and cut them off, there's no point trying to lever them off as you'll just destroy them. You can always stick them back on with double-sided tape later.
Now you need a small screwdriver to dig out the plastic cap by inserting it into the small hole in the centre of the rubber foot.
Now you can see the torque security screws
You'll need a T10H (6 point star bit with hole in the centre) to remove the 4 screws
Once the screws are removed you can separate the two halves of the power supply case with a little wiggling. The top half of the case houses the PSU fan, simply disconnect the fan cable from the main board.
Here's the fan assembly disconnected
Be careful not to lose the plastic light from the corner
Next we get our first glimpse of the main board itself, it's pretty obvious where the burnout has occured judging by the blackness.
To further investigate the damage we need to de-solder the plastic shielding from the base, there's a tab at each end.
This reveals the base of the board, again it is clear to see where excessive heat has been present in the bottom right corner.
Markings on the board read:
Chicony Power Technology
A220P001L A12-220P1A [ ]
A220R001L A12-220N1A [/]
More to follow soon....
OTHER INFORMATION
Some Russian and Chinese links where they are converting the 110v PSU's to 240v by removing a few components.
Hi Dave.
ReplyDeleteGreat post! Recently I fired my Xbox One Power Supply and now I am in the way of repairing that. I replaced some fired parts, but I can't determine model of 8 pin IC chip (transistor) in the middle of PSU board (it is visible in last photo of Your post).
Could You make a new photo with visible sign or send me model for this IS, please?
Thank You in advance.
Regards,
Hovhannes
baburyanh@gmail.com
Thanks for the message, I checked my photo's and unfortunately I don't have a more detailed picture of the part you need the number for. When I'm back in town I'll have a check and post it here.
DeleteHi
DeleteThis is What you Looking for "NCP1392D"
http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/NCP1392-D.PDF
Hi please update us when you fixed your problem thanks! We appreciate this!
ReplyDeleteIt has been a long wait, could you please post the rest? Thank you.
ReplyDeleteDid the same thing. Except I bought a new psu....and my Xbox still won't turn on. Any ideas? Hoping I didn't fry the console. And my new call of duty advanced warfare is stuck inside!!! Noooooo! LOL any help would be great
ReplyDeleteHello, Dave
ReplyDeleteI did the same dumb mistake, even though i KNOW that i should't have done it without attaching a decent power converter before that. In my case the adapter was attached to the console, and i still don't know if the surge protection in the adapter manage to stop the current of not frying the console or not .. i've ordered some OEM replacement, but it will take some days to arrive and then i'll know.
What is interesting for me at the moment, is the second part of the story
You've implicitly said that you managed to fix it, but it's not in this article, do you intend to publish the second part soon??
would love to see the second part of this tutorial. Been using a step down power supply. invited my friend over and he connected the xbox straight to the mains. big mistake
ReplyDeleteHey where is the fuse in the x box one power brick? I'd like to be able to fix it. Cheers!
ReplyDeletePlease upload the next part. I have the exact issue with my xbox one brick, my circuit is also burnt from the exact place.
ReplyDeleteAny help?
you can use atx power supply
Deletehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_ytOAHyzjE
see this
all xbox 360 - one consoles its work fine
use original atx psu recomendend with same amps or more no broblem
Hi Dave,
ReplyDeleteI'm repairing an Xbox One power supply and looking for values of resistor R801 and zener ZD801.
Hope someone can help!
BUONA GIORNATA HO UN ALIMENTATORE CHICONY POWER TECNOLOGY XBOX ONE VORREI SAPERE CORTESEMENTE IL VALORE DELL'INTEGRATO U801 E IL ZD801 E MI DATE IL VALORE DELLA RESISTENZA SMD R801 GRAZIE GENTILISSIMI.
ReplyDeleteI plugged the 110 volt adapter incorrectly into a 220V power supply, the smoke adapter came up, and I quickly pulled it out of the power supply, so I could replace the component in the adapter board, which is fine thanks.
ReplyDeletebuon giorno a voi ho un AC ADAPTER PER XBOX ONE DELLA LINQ HO UN COMPONENTE PIAZZATO U801 E IN LEGGIBILE POSSO AVERE IL CODICE DELL'INTEGRATO GRAZIE.
ReplyDelete