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Friday, 21 April 2017

Scott (DT Swiss) Equalizer 3 Shock - Service Instructions (Basic)

Introduction

The Scott Equalizer 3 shock was engineered for Scott by DT Swiss and features on the Scott Genius range of bikes.

Unlike most rear bicycle 'push shocks', the Equalizer 3 is a 'pull shock'. It features 3 modes of operation:
  1. Full travel mode
  2. Traction mode
  3. Lock-out mode
Disassembly process

Before you can service the shock you will need to disassemble it. The disassembly instructions can be found here and the special disassembly tools here 

Servicing process

Before we start out I must point out I am not a qualified bike engineer, what you read and see here is the result of my own readings, curious mind and practical knowledge. I may update this guide if anyone else can suggest a better method or provide new understanding.


You will need the following tools/service materials:

Large 4 pin tool for (-) negative chamber
Small 3 pin tool for (+) positive chambers
Inverted slot head screwdriver (3mm diameter)
Torque wrench)
42mm ratchet socket
26mm ratchet socket
Vice with soft jaws
T10 Torx star bit
5W or 7.5W Suspension oil
Stanchon grease


Step 1 : Greasing the (+) positive and (-) negative chambers

Grease the insides of each of the 3 tubes




Step 2: Greasing the piston seals and inserting the pistons into the shock

Lightly grease the seals on the both the small + piston inserts



Insert both positive pistons into their chambers and push them down as far as they will go  (there may be some resistance, so you need to release some of the trapped air from the positive valve).



Lightly grease the seal on the negative piston seal



Insert the negative piston into the chamber and push down (there may be some resistance, so you need to release some of the trapped air from the negative valve). Before the piston is all the way in make sure there is a gap to pour in the new oil.

Step 3: Measuring and filling with oil

Now measure out 82ml of shock oil (5wt or 7.7wt) and spread the amount across all 3 chambers (do not over fill and leave enough space to install the end caps)



Step 4: Tightening chamber end caps

Install both postive piston end caps with the small 3 pin tool and 26mm ratchet socket and tighten 6 1/4 turns (tighten to 10nm with a torque wrench)

Please note:

DO NOT USE AN ADJUSTABLE SPANNER, MONKEY WRENCH OR RING SPANNER AS THEY CREATE UNEQUAL TURNING FORCE ON THE ADAPTOR AND HAVE NO DOWNWARDS PRESSURE.



Then tighten the main large piston end cap with the large 4 pin tool and 42mm ratchet socket (10nm with torque wrench)

Please note:

DO NOT USE AN ADJUSTABLE SPANNER, MONKEY WRENCH OR RING SPANNER AS THEY CREATE UNEQUAL TURNING FORCE ON THE ADAPTOR AND HAVE NO DOWNWARDS PRESSURE.



Step 5: Priming the shock

Inflate both valves to approx 50psi

Gently release each bleed valve one-by-one using the inverted screwdriver to expel any trapped air until oil appears at the hole.

Step 6: Pressurising shock for rider weight

(The instructions on the shock body are pretty self explanatory, but you can can also find my detail on the procedure my following the instructions in the Scott owners manual)

Then proceed to inflate the positive chamber to the required pressure for rider weight (as stated on the chart on the side of the shock)

Now proceed to inflate the negative chamber to the required pressure for rider weight (as stated on the chart on the side of the shock)

Step 6: Final check over

If all has gone well the shock should be in the fully retracted position with no shaft showing.


You can now reinstall the red rebound adjusters on the positive chambers (assuming you followed my disassembly instructions you should set both dials to 1 before tightening the screws).

Finally remember to put the dust caps back on the valves



Last step is obviously to set the required pressures for your rider weight using the chart on the side of the shock. You can also use Scott's online calibration tool to help you further tune your ride.


Feel free to leave a comment if you've done the job yourself and have a different method or ideas about servicing it.

35 comments:

  1. Where you buy the seals? Do you have link?

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  2. Hello,
    Thank you for the instruction but my seals are dead. Where can i find a complete service kit?

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  3. Thank you so much for this!!
    People like you are the reason why i love the internet!
    Just serviced my Equalizer 2 shock after the piston would not fully retract anymore.
    Your instructions worked perfectly!

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  4. Hi, I got a service kit of O ring for my shox from air n shox and I would like to know, did you put an o-ring behind the the piston seals?

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    Replies
    1. Do you have a link to the kit you bought?

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    2. https://airnshox.com/product.php?id=393

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    3. My kit was the same as the original, yours might be better though.

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  5. Do you remember if you put an o ring behind the négative piston seal? I can see that it is the same type of seal as mine. But the origine one was like on your positive piston.

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    Replies
    1. I only replaced the seals with exactly the same as what came off. Your kit sounds like it uses more o rings than the original.

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  6. Can anyone help with the replacement of my scott genius 40 shock please?
    Apparently parts aren't available any more.

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    Replies
    1. What parts do you need to replace? Or do you need to replace the whole shock?

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  7. Hey love you tutorial ,it really helped me out! I bought some suspension fluid and started working on my shock but it hasn't ever been serviced since it was new in 2012, and the caps below the rebound adjusters are stuck. I bought the bike used a few months ago and it has worked great besides the shaft being exposed a few millimeters. Do you have any idea of how to get the caps for the air and oil chambers loose?

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    Replies
    1. Are the caps you are referring to the ones in Step 2 above?

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    2. It's probably because you have unequal/unbalanced turning force using a two pin tool.

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    3. Be careful, you don't want to damage those holes otherwise you'll never get the shock apart.

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    4. I have been careful and the holes are intact, but do you have another solution?

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    5. You can do it with this http://lifelearningsofanearthling.blogspot.com/2016/09/scott-dt-swiss-equalizer-3-shock-tool.html

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    6. Are you selling it? If so I think I'll only need the three pin. I live in Sweden.

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    7. Yes, if you only need the 3 pin one, it'll be half the cost of the full set

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    8. I've spoken to my parents about it, since I am servicing my shock myself they will pay for it. Will you be able to ship to Sweden can you estimate the time it will take to arrive?

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    9. Shipping to Sweden is no problem, it's difficult to say how long it will take. I've sent them to other European countries before and usually it takes 1-2 weeks from dispatch date, the pandemic is obviously making things difficult/slow too. This will be the first I've sent outside of the UK since Brexit so I'm not sure if that will have an effect too. You must make sure you use a "26mm ratchet socket" with it. Do you have one of those?

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    10. As long as it comes in a few weeks I'm happy, since I won't be able to ride in the snow anyway. I have a 26mm rachet wrench, but no torque measurment, so I'll be marking how tight it is before I unscrew it.
      And just to be extra clear, do you know for sure that the three pin for the Equalizer 3 will fit the three pin on the Equalizer 2, or do you have any measurments that I can compare to my shock?

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    11. I'm afraid the 3 pin tool only currently works with the Equalizer 3, not the Equalizer 2. The 3 pin cap on the Equalizer 2 is a slightly different shape which doesn't allow my design to fit in a way that won't destroy the tool.

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    12. Do you know any other way how to get suspension fluid into it again? Perhaps through the shrader valves?

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    13. The oil has to go above the piston seals. If you put oil in through the schrader valves it will be below the piston seals. You may be able to inject oil through the bleed valve holes as this will put oil above the piston seals, but you have to make some kind of tube to help you push the oil in. If you want to send me your shock and pay send and return postage I will make a 3 pin tool that will fit the Equalizer 2 for free.

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    14. Where are the bleed valves, and if I can't manage to do so I'm interested in sending it over to you. In that case how long would it take for you to finish the tool and return it and my shock back?

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    15. On the top next the main piston, there are two. Once I receive it, should have it designed and printed in under 5 days. Postage time is up to you, depending what method you choose to send and receive it.

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    16. I will try to do it using the bleed valves at first but if I can't manage to do it, I'll probably want to send it over to you to get the tool for it. If I don't need you to make the tool for me, thanks anyways!

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    17. Do I need to follow any other procedure than your tutorial doing this with the bleed valves? I've depressurised the chambers and so on.

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    18. I've not done it the bleed valve way before, but I believe it's the way DT Swiss service centre does it with their proper tooling.

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  8. Are you still making these and did you ever make the 3 pin that would fit the equalizer 2

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    Replies
    1. Yes. I have the equalizer 2 version now too, just haven't updated the blog with the details yet.

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    2. does anybody knows where can i buy service kit for equalizer 2? until now i just replace the oil. i thing is time to replace the seals too...

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  9. I've not tried it, but it seems to suggest it works for 2 & 3. The shocks are pretty much the same from the visual comparison I've seen so far.

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